6461

Fit 02, 03 to infinity and beyond

Prep for the Fit 02 pics was quick. I folded the pants inseam to side seam, laid them on the table and trimmed 1/2″ above the shorter front leg. Done!. Fix the waist elastic a little more complicated. Fortunately I had used water-soluble thread. I spritz the stitching that secured the elastic to the facing.  While it worked at dissolving the WST, I opened up  8″ between the yoke+facing and the pant leg. Then I reached in between yoke and facing and pulled the elastic.  Found the joined ends and opened them. Pull out the elastic. I measured the elastic for my known starting point and cut that length (31″, Does that matter?) Put the elastic back in; joined the ends; closed yoke to top of pant seam.  Did not secure the elastic to the facing.  Then took pics.

Oh nice, the pant wants to stay up this time, but I do feel a little tugging at the back crotch. I may be thinking of scooping.

The waist looked about the same which almost guarantees that I will be adapting for a zipper to produce a  sleeker fit at the waist.  It is the back which surprised me. I’m not sure that I need to let out the back:

I’m more concerned about the tug I was feeling. However the front definitely needed help:

So then started a series of taking in the front and even though unsure it was needed, I let out the back 1/8″ over the seat. The front, I took in a 2nd time and then said “Hmmmm.  Usually, I take an inch from the front and add it to the back.  This time, I don’t need more in the back, but I definitely need less ease in front.”  So I stitched the CF leg seam on my 1″ mark which is really 7/8″ wide. And took pics.

The back seat

Perfectomundo! OK there’s a little poof directly below the CB waist but, you know, it’s that kind of pant. Not sure I will do anything to correct it, especially since it will be covered by my tops.  The front leg

is not bad. I don’t think I will do anything to it either, except that the front crotch

Oh! My! Where did that come from?  Until I took out most of the front ease, there was no hint of camel toe. But dang it’s there now.   Also take a look at the back leg

It is now sort of buckling at the knee? While not a clear X, it is more prominent than earlier pics.  Light Bulb! From Morgan’s  input at  SG  “If the front crotch curve shape is too straight (or too short) it can pull the back to the front and cause draglines to form at the back”  Fortunately, that was a recent post and I remembered it. And then I think “Hmmmm the back  is pulling, the front has camel toe. Maybe I need to let them both out at the inseam?” I ripped open the inseam about 3″ on either side of the crotch and let it out 3/8″ because any less than 1/4″ seam allowance seems to shred even during minimal wear. And WOW

Back crotch  —————————-Back leg ——————————-Front crotch

OK yes there are still issues, chief of which is at the side, above the hip.  Before the previous fit, I had not seen evidence that the sides were too long.  It surprised me because every pant pattern I’ve fit in the last 3 years needed a dart on the side to remove:

The side is too long as a result of making the front and back crotch long enough to go over a protruding rear and prominent tummy.  It will need a dart fish eye dart that extends from about the middle of the front pant leg, crosses the side seam and terminates then about the middle of the back pant leg.  The widest point will be directly over the side seam. I think an alternative would be choosing a pattern that has the correct side length and then making horizontal slashes to add length to the front and back crotch along with vertical slashes to add enough circumferences. Sounds like more work than a couple of side darts so I haven’t gone that route yet. Besides, for this style, with the 3″ wide yoke, it’s really easy to just open that seam between yoke and pant leg and tuck the top of the pant leg up far enough so the yoke hangs evenly. Next alteration: side dart; and then could it be that I am ready

…for…

…good….

…fabric?