6461

6461: First Fit

Let’s start by admitting I made 2 mistakes. First I didn’t pay enough attention to the hemming directions and hem markings on the pattern. Secondly I managed to sew the center seam of the front piece to the side seam of the side front. Didn’t notice until I was stitching fronts to back. After a bunch of pulling out checking original patterns; checking tracings; seam walkings, I realized my two errors. So when you see the muslin the front is shorter than the back (my bad on the hemming). But I did manage to get the fronts stitched together correctly and stitched to the backs.   Like others, I don’t like the instructions for the yoke. I did not attach the yoke to the pant and then the facing to the yoke. Didn’t understitch although I did top stitch after sewing back to front yoke pieces and then yoke to facing. I don’t like facings. They always tend to flap about; come undone, peek out when I want to look neat. So I  attached stitched both yoke and facing together and to the top of the pant leg.  A 3rd goof, I followed pattern instruction of cutting elastic to your waist measurment plus 1″.   Didn’t follow the instruction to pin together and adjust. Nope. Using WST, I lapped and stitched the elastic ends; divided in quarters and secured to the facing in 4 places. I should know better. Really I should.  Even as I was taking pictures, I was hitching the CB up and it kept sliding down. Simply was not tight enough at the waist to hold in position.

Before looking at pics, one more thought about the preprocessing. It’s going to take more time to stitch this style together than others. Just because there are so many seams.  I’m going to compare stitching time as more like jeans than with yoga pants. Even if this pant works easily for me, I’m still going to have reservations about using it.  Just as TJ906, it requires 2-1/4 yards. Can’t get around that. Even folding out the tucks and eliminating hems, placing the pattern pieces on grain takes more yardage. Most of the time I buy an even 2 yards.  If I really like this pattern, I will have to change my habits to buy more. For the near term, probably not using this pattern.

So onto pics

Like others I think the waist is more gathered that I like

but I’m conscious that a woven fabric must have more gathering than a knit. I can’t remember having any stretch-wovens that would stretch the inches I need to go over my hips and still fit my waist exactly.  They have to be gathered to my waist. I think I need a zipper to achieve a really smooth look at that waist. But I may be able to remove a little ease. After all, the size I chose is actually drafted to fit bigger hips than my own. Despite adding 3/8″ to the side seam allowances,  I stitched at the drafted stitching line. The yoke stitched 1:1 with top of pant. Easy stitching.  I used 1-3/4″ wide elastic and  think it really is necessary to secure the elastic at the top of the yoke. Otherwise it’s going to roam around inside that chanel. It was at least another 1″ wider than my elastic. The widest elastic I have is 2″.  Bottom line: I see what the others were saying about it being gathered more than the liked but I don’t think there is much I can do to change that without  changing to a knit fabric or adding  a zipper.

Typical for me, so don’t hold this against the pattern, I have too much room in front and not enough in back:

Used to be the front would look just right but side seams would curve sharply towards my seats showing me exactly what I had to let out. With modern fabrics, the back stretches and stretches some more while the front hangs loose and I see a perfectly straight side seam:

Unfortunately I lose a critical tell. Fortunately, the pant is sitting at my waist and I will have a good idea just by measuring where I should let out the center leg-back seam  Usually I’m forced to work on the side seam trying to add more room to the interior of the back.Often that doesn’t work well.  Sometimes it results in needing a 3rd back dart or changing the back crotch curve. Neither are ideal but both are better than VPL.  I’ll also have the luxury of tweaking the front center-leg seam to remove excess circumference. I gain my weight pretty evenly i.e. my padding doesn’t land stictly in the saddle bags. My sides are fairly straight or at least that’s a gently arc. Sometimes changing that arc doesn’t help at all (especially with modern fabrics).  For the front, I have been forced to either attempt a discombobulated tummy enlargement (similar to a full bust adjustment) or, once again, alter the crotch curve by adding a wedge at center front.

Interestingly, back of leg

looks too large over all between butt and ankle rather than the usual  too much between butt and knee.  I won’t tackle this immediately. I’m sort of following Peggy Sager’s procedure. It’s a good procedure but even she admits it doesn’t work for everyone’s draft. In fact, Peggy refuses to fit patterns other than her own because she says she has no idea what changes they have incorporated; and where she can spot where her changes don’t fit your figure, she can only guess for other pattern lines. But I’m starting by saying: Hey look

It sits at the waist (like I like)

The crotch is where I like it

It may still be a little long

LENGTH:  trim 1/2″; adjust elastic (keep those pants up!)

 

So I probably will need circumference adjustments but not until after the 2nd set of pics.  First, I’m getting LENGTHs correct.