Silhouette Patterns

A perplexing point in my pants fitting

I’m working with Silhouette Patterns 3414

and I’m definitely at a stop-and-think-what-you-are-doing point.  I acknowledge some astonishing success with 3200, Sally’s Pant.

OK I followed the rules. I bought the pattern, checked finished measurements and then made a muslin. It was pretty good but required modest (1/2) hip line  and small (1/4″) upper inseam darts and a few nominal changes like shortening the legs drafted for a 5’6″ figure to fit a 5’3″ woman. Nothing spectacular. My biggest disappointment was that the envelope stated the hem circumference would be about 17″ for the large sizes (which I am).  My hem was 5″ larger–not even close to promised.

I always intended to go back and slim that leg but got side tracked and along the way bought 3414 which I’m working with now. My first version of 3414 was similarly pleasing. Crossing my fingers for luck I applied the same 1/2″ hip line and 1/4″ inseam darts that were successful for me previously. Oh, as well as the few other changes I need like shortening the legs. This pair finished with 24″ hem circumferences (me not happy). But had the back had looked as good as 3200, I would have been OK.

It did not. So I set about making a real muslin. Tweaking it and then a 2nd test fabric.

(Sorry the pic is so dark. I promise I lightened it.)

Next version, I doubled the depth of both the hip line and upper inseam darts.  I scooped out the crotch because it was cutting into me. However, this was not the answer

I took a step back, restored the crotch and for Version 3, I narrowed the hem circumference 2″ to 22″ and during fitting pinched out the excess material over the thigh.  This seemed fairly successful:

 

So for Version 4, current version, I marked the excess of V3 onto the tissue splitting the resulting fish eye dart between side seam (3/4″) and inseam (1/4″). I also reduced the hem circumference another 2″ to finish at 20″.  It didn’t work.

I think they are almost the same as the first Version! Like other pants patterns that I’ve tried to fit, I seem to have made a circuit. Never fully correcting the issues nor creating the pants I want to wear.

SoI doubled down on the fish eye dart for the side seam.  I increased it from the 1″ of V3 to 2″:

I’d call that a mistake. Why it worked that one time (later pictures of V3 are not so nice), I don’t know.

But I had a brain storm. Fish-eye dart wasn’t working. With apologies to all devoted Peggy Sagers Fans, hip line and upper inseam dart were unhelpful when making changes to the hem circumference. So, I pulled the pant up at the waist 1″ and scooped the crotch 1″

 

Much better but still not exactly what I want.  The hip is now too tight. I’m getting VPL and there is an apparent pulling at the knee and drag lines through the lower leg that previously did not exist! Much as I love Peggy, I really have come to love her, I don’t think her fitting procedure is doing all that I want.  It seemed to work as long as I didn’t want a style change. As long as I’m satisfied with a big hem circumference.

Honestly, not sure what direction I will be taking with pant fitting. I have a goal, trouser/slacks that sit at the waist with an 18-20″ hem circumference. Not skin-tight but curve skimming.  Just not sure how to get there.

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