5682 - Jeans

Mom Jeans Day 4

Day 4, I rolled out the plastisized aisle runner and cut another copy of my new pattern.  Last time I cut all parts of the muslin from the plastic stuff.  This time I had half in the good aisle runner and cut the other half in the plastisized stuff. I realized that Peggy and a few others have a point. By using the aisle runner as a muslin, I could make all my changes to it and still have the light weight pattern I desire (after fitting and tossing the plastisized stuff).

I dont’ remember who at SG suggested this, but they are right. Pants are an easy garment to sew. It’s the fitting stuff that makes pants miserable. I put water-soluble thread in the bobbin and had my first fitting pics in under 15 minutes.

The good news, everything is too big!!

I decided to take my pants in 1/4″ at a time because I suspected that I would need to take-in more for the hips, little less for the tummy and a lot for the thigh and calves. Well actually my SM throat plate is marked in mm’s so I took in 5mm at a time. After stitching the first 5, disaster!  The camera broke. Well, I knocked it face forward onto the basement i.e cement floor. After that the picture was blurred. Timeout to order a new camera which Amazon promises me will be here in 2 days. I cannot fit without a camera. So I retrieve my cell phone, which rarely gets used, and figured out how to take pics and email them to myself.  Don’t tell me old dogs can’t learn new tricks!

Fit 01, with side SA’s just 5 mm deeper, surprised me. The butt is almost perfect. I’m not sure I want to take it in any more.  The waist definitely needs the next 5mm deeper but the Tummy would be better at 2mm. The back of leg mess and front thigh

are both begging for less fabric. Like maybe a whole 2.5cm less.

But FIT 02 and another 5mm off the side seams (which turned out to be not too much) and  2.5mm off the inseam and the upper jean looks good. Butt not too tight,  tummy just needs to be let out a smidge. Oddly, thighs feel close when I”m trying to slip into them, but definitely are not when I look at the pics.  The side views actually look pretty good. It’s the full on front or back pics in which the pant is begging for  intervention (alsoreveal my underpinnings and therefore not shown).

Let me take a moment to point out that Fit02 is exactly why I didn’t want to trace the Size 22 and start over.  I have another 4 hours into this pattern on Muslin2 and I’m barely at the point I ended with Fit04 of the First Muslin.

So Fit 03 and another 5mm off the side seam from crotch line to hem.

This says that the butt circumference is still good.

However the crotch is now too long

This suggests I should take more ease/circumference from the leg:

However the sides and front say the legs are looking nice!.

The front crotch still appears to be the correct length (and it is comfortable) but what the heck is this just under the tummy?

Fit04 I decide to temporarily ignore the under-tummy fold/crease/divot and take  another 5mm off the side leg below the crotch and another 2.5mm off the inseam.

The side still look nice

The front is about the same. It tends to vary as I don’t exactly pin the front together the same way every time. Sometimes I think it is still too loose from high point tummy to hem other times it looks fine or too tight.

The back looks good from waist to crotch although it still has the feathers which imply it’s a little long, maybe 1/4″. The back leg:

well honestly it looks good to me from knee to hem. It is that area between butt and knee that have me concerned; along with

It’s now a 14″ hem circumference and is not crazy bad but requires a little wiggle to get in and out of the ankle. Another new experience is that the knee feels restricted when I’m walking.

I’m finally at the point where I think I need to move to fabric, real denim. I’m by no means confident of the plastic table-cloth fitting experience. Especially since the ‘good’ aisle runner on the right leg repeatedly looks better. I think the waist and tummy needs to be finalized when I’m working with a zipper that definitely closes the front the same way, every time. I’m pretty sure the back crotch needs to be shortened by 1/4″,  but not dead certain. I removed and applied the WB a dozen times. OK 3 times and was never sure I was stitching at the 3/8″ I planned. The plastic tends to slide a bit. Might have helped if I could have found my teflon foot. I know it’s inhere some place. I only use the teflon foot  with vinyl and can’t find it right now. Point is the back crotch may not need changing and I can adapt 1/4″ while sewing the first fabric version.  As for the back leg, I’ve made neither  Hip Line Dart nor the Horseshoe dart at the inseam. Again, working with plastic makes me uncertain. Unfortunately, these 2 alterations have to be made at the tissue level.

So for now, I will be perfecting what I can perfect with my first fabric version and expecting to make changes for a Version 2 and maybe a Version 3. BUT  I must say I’m delighted to be starting with fabric. I’ve put 10-11 hours into this so far.  I’m relieved that I may be able to sew an acceptable jean made from a Big 4 pattern. It’s been so long since I’ve used any of their patterns I really doubted I would ever get to the fabric stage. It’s been a good day. Time to snap out the lights and go upstairs.

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If you’re wondering about the sizing call

  • The back butt is now about a 20( Remember I added 1/2″ to the back side seam)
  • Front is  an 18 but with a 3/8″ wedge added to the center front.
  • Back crotch and front crotch are still size 22 with +1″ and 2″ length added respectively
  • Inseam is  an 18
  • Side seam from crotch to hem is about a 16.

No wonder I have so much problems fitting pants. I’m crossing 4 sizes with my front and back at different sizes

1 thought on “Mom Jeans Day 4”

  1. As you are obviously aware of, the plasticized stuff you are using to muslin these jeans will not give you the same fit as the fabric. Are you using a denim or denim-like fabric with the kind of stretch in the Diane Gilman jeans you buy/like? Compare the amount of stretch. The online fabric sellers have denims in various weights with 20% – nice! Before you cut, I would take the pattern pieces with your last fitting, and lay them over your DG jeans, or others you are happy with the fit, and see how they compare.

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