Fitting took a detour. Overnight I kept wondering if I needed the full 1″ added across the upper pant or if I really just needed a wedge that would add 1″ right at the crotch. I think about 3AM I remembered I had kept a couple of aisle runner rolls that I don’t like to use. One is hard to see and trace through; both react badly to a warm iron (forget about a hot iron.) While I don’t use them, they are perfect for creating muslins. I measured up 18″ from the bottom of the leg and drew a horizontal line. I folded the pant leg up along that line and cut front, back, yoke and 1 waistband. Ignoring the zipper I stitched this short together. Pulled in on; pinned the front and settled it in position around my waist.
OK so there were pics, but I’m reluctant to share full views. Aisle runner tends to be on the transparent side and I don’t wish to post photos of me in my underwear. But these 2 sessions gave me some very good info and was well worth the time spent. The waistband sits right at the waist. So down at the bottom of the waistband and top of the waist which I think of as high hip, I could easily tell I needed the 1″ fit insurance I added. I let the side seam out from top of waistband down 5 inches. Top now has a SA of 1/2″ tapering down to 1″ at the high hip. The leg and hip, have plenty of ease. I may take some in. Once the waist had enough length to wrap around my tummy and meet at what should be center front, I could look again at the crotch length and depth. At this point, and working with what essentially is a lightweight plastic table-cloth, I think adding the wedge was the right call. BUT I didn’t add enough. While the sides are high enough, CF and CB still dip 1/2 and 1/4″ respectively. I’m tempted to add more to the crotch length. This plastisized tissue is difficult to read and I can’t take my own evaluations as gospel truth. Looking at the back, I think I’m going to scoop just because I can look at the back crotch tissue and tell you “that’s never going to fit me” but this mess says
“not enough butt ease” rather than crotch depth. The tissue is stiff and so will be the denim. The problem to me is that when I look directly at the butt, I don’t see drag lines, or bright lights bouncing back at me. That area acts like the fit is fine. There isn’t any VPL –beyond seeing the entire under-garment but none of that crossing an elastic strap VPL.
Fit03, I sliced from CF to side seam and added 1/2″ to the front crotch. For the back, I scooped 1/2″ I can always tell when I’m on the right track because, as did this change, the right direction always causes a garment (even a test plastic garment) to immediately feel more comfortable. The Waist was immediately level
The back of thigh mess changed significantly
Even with the added length, the front crotch looks too short. It too needs to be reshaped; and it’s obvious that my butt really does need more room. Why could I not see that when the crotch was too short? Interestingly, the back crotch now looks too long. It bubbles right under the yoke which to me says “don’t correct the front crotch until you’re sure the back crotch is right. I wanted to add more ease across the rear before any other changes.
Fit04 Adding another 1/2″ ease made a wonderful difference. (Pattern includes 5/8″ SA. I added 1″ to the side seams. Initially I stitched at 1″ which adds 5/8″ (*2=1.25″) ease across the rear. With the additional 1/2″ I’ve added a total of 2.75”. Truthfully, it might be a little much. The bubble mentioned earlier, is now a big blister:
Scooping the back was probably a mistake. Too bad I couldn’t see or feel the need for additional ease.
Whew, Day 2 is over. I close the doors and turn off the lights. I need to contemplate before proceeding.
Day 3, and this post will be short. Something worried me over night. So I started Day 3 by measuring, measuring measuring. Measuring the muslin. Measuring the original pattern. Eventually I decided everything I’d done to the muslin, had created the size 22 of the original pattern. Have I even mentioned I was an Analyst? Computers, Info Tech etc. Not people. People I don’t get too much. Machines, data I do. My tendency is to analyze and then create an elegant solution. A solution that can be easily followed and repeated even if I have to walk you through it the first time. Coincidentally, an elegant solution is something I can understand easily if I ever have to look at it again. So my inclination upon realizing I’d enlarged the muslin to a size 22 and in doing so created a lot of angles and some wonky bends, was to start over. But I’d didn’t want to start over because I’ve already invested 4 hours to get to this point and I could have just continued slashing and patching the muslin. Sigh, you never regret doing things the right way. I traced the size 22; added 1/2″ to the side back. I was ready to sew (and this post might have been longer) except a spell of sweating and weakness struck me. Nothing too serious. I’d had diarrhea in the wee hours of the morn but had seemed fine afterwards. I assume I have picked up a bug. Feeling as I did, I really had no choice but to load things up with weights i.e. ensuring they stayed where I left them and make my way upstairs to sit a spell. Until Day 4.