906

The Ribbon Jeans

I began planning this pair of jeans almost as soon before taking pics of the previous. I feel like I’m close which makes me happy.  I hunted for a good fabric. I would have preferred a medium-dark, non-stretch denim. None to be found in my stash. I’m needing blue pants in my closet so I looked carefully I what I did have.  I had to discard one denim because there simply wasn’t enough length with this pattern. I think it odd, but the 3-piece leg requires more fabric than 2. I would have thought it possible to shift things around and make maximum use with 3 pieces. Not so. By the time everything is on-grain, a full 2 yards is required for shorty me and I would prefer 2-1/4.   Anyway what I did choose was a heavier weight denim, about 10-11 oz,; navy blue almost black with 20% stretch. It is a cotton/lycra blend which is fine with me.  I stopped to review my previous tissue alterations:

  • Added 7/8″ length to front crotch
  • Shortened inseam to 29.5″
  • Narrow hem circumference to 18″
    • -1/2″ on inseam
    • -1″ on sideseam
  • Establish seam allowances
    • Crotch 3/8″
    • Inseam 1/4″
    • leg center-back 1/4″

And then I added a few more learned from fitting:

  • Reduce waistband length -1/4″
  • Reduce side seam length above hip
    • back 1″ back *divided
    • front 1.25″  *divided
  • Add 1/2″ ease at back side seam for butt
  • Add 1″ ease (2″ total) at center front

Basically, I’ve added 3 more alterations for above the knee fitting.

906 has the center back seam in the leg and I considered adding the extra ease there. But I need to reduce circumference under the butt.  I don’t want to create a wildly bulging curve by adding more circumference directly above where I chisel it out.  I considered the typical alterations for ‘protruding rear’ . But they add ease at the waist and under the bum as well. If I use those alterations, I  must make more alterations to offset the ease added at waist and under-butt.  I hesitated on adding the 1/2″ at the side seam. I know I’ve made similar alterations in the past. I end up with Micky Mouse ears on my side seams. I don’t understand why, but the extra ease does not get pulled to where it is needed and instead hovers over a rather flat part of my body (the side hip). But I had run out of options. I’d run out of answers to the question: Where can I add ease for the butt without adding too much at the waist and under the butt.  I added 1/2″ on the side  right about where I stick out the most in back.

Adding ease to the center front came about after I made the side seam shorter (via the 2 side darts) I noticed that the center front was curved and pulling towards the side seams.

That’s not the line I usually see at CF on pants. This is one time I’m usual rather than different. I decided to cut right along the fly line and watched as it sprang open 1″ on it’s on. I taped tissue into place and decided to just go with it.

Despite my reservations, I began cutting and construction. I mean that’s the only way to tell if the changes are  going to work. I serged inseams and center  back-leg seams; installed the zipper with permanent stitching and also serged the top seam of the waistband to its facing (followed by triple stitching that seam to nail it into place).  I basted everything else with water-soluble thread in the bobbin before the first fitting. I will note that it wasn’t the easiest thing to ease the side back to the side front seam and easing the waistband to the top of the pant involved a lot of stretching and a little swearing. See not only was the waist expanded by the CF addition but I forgot and stitched my 1″ fitting seams at 1/2″.  Old habits are bound to kick you now and then.

So the first fitting didn’t tell me much beyond I had more than enough ease. I also saw that the back side seam was gathered to the front. I thought I had shortened the front 1/4″ more than the back but this was a lot more than that.  I ripped out the side seam to just below the hip and offset the yoke and back leg 1/2″; then restitched side seams at the 1″ depth they were supposed to be.  I also corrected the crotch seam. Somehow I had sewn one side deeper than the other and at an angle. I have no explanation and no defense.  But I was pretty happy with Fit 02. No pics of the fittings. Mostly that was it. Stitching the seams at the right depth and taking a little more from the back side seam depth.  When I did the permanent stitching I also let the back and front sides align as they desired (vs me forcing the two dissimilar curves together). It straight the curve just a little, removing about 1/4″. For the final fitting and pics I am sharing, I lightened them 100% and still it’s not easy to see the fitting issues.

The front feels like the crotch might be 1/4-1/2″ to long. I thought adding 2″ at the CF would be too much ease, but my pics says my tummy wouldn’t mind more.

The outright gathering is gone. That 1/2″ was the right decision. But like the back

Diagonal lines on the butt are ribbon.

I think the sides are saying “too much ease”.  Here’s my problem: I’m wanting to fit this pattern for non-stretch denim. This denim has 20% stretch. If I take it in, which the tummy BTW says “no”,  a non-stretch fabric has no chance of fitting. I suppose I could take in just the pants and not transfer to the pattern??

Anyway, pants feel great during wear. As I said before, they do feel a little long in the crotch front. I can see they may be a little long in the leg but I like that in new jeans. Interesting that denim seems to warm, soften and stretch width wise but over time shrinks lengthwise. My favorite jeans are always discarded

And the Pockets?  Totally easy to create. That’s 2 widths of grosgrain ribbon. The 1″ is stitched to the wrong side of the hem, folded to the right side and top stitched. Hem done. The 1/2″ grosgrain was stitched next to two lines I chalked onto the denim. Then I serged the outside. The raw edges don’t have to be serged but I find that it folds easily and more importantly evenly to the wrong side fit it’s serged first. I secured the pocket in place with 1/2″ Steam-A-Seam before top stitching the pocket to the jean. Easy. And so many possible variations. Not only can the ribbon be orientated differently, it can different colors, stacked, embroidered, painted. It’s just a wonderful embellishment I should have been using all along.

 

 

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Large differences usually work better for me if I make them into small difference. So for the side seam length reduction, I made two 1/2″ darts (3/8″ front). The result is that the full amount has been reduced but the side seam retains its curve and did not degenerate into jogs.

NET FITTING CHANGES

  • Added 7/8″ length to front crotch
  • Shortened inseam to 29.5″
  • Narrow hem circumference to 18″
    • -1/2″ on inseam
    • -1″ on sideseam
  • Establish seam allowances
    • Crotch 3/8″
    • Inseam 1/4″
    • leg center-back 1/4″
    • side seams 1/2″
    • waistband
      • upper 1/4″ (3/8 when folded to WS)
      • lower 1/2″
    • Yoke 1/2″ except 3/8″ crotch
    • Top of leg 1/2″
  • Reduce waistband length -1/4″
  • Reduce side seam length above hip
    • back 1.5″ back *divided
    • front 1.25″  *divided
  • Add 1/4″ ease at back side seam for butt
  • Add 1″ ease (2″ total) at center front