906

Fitting 906

After a few  days of fitting, interspersed with life’s duties and activities, I have returned with a post about fitting my beloved Trudy Jansen Designer Jean Pattern #906.

The lovely med-dark brown, stretch, denim fabric  I selected, was easy to cut and very cooperative during sewing. It is, as well, a joy to wear.  The finished jeans feel wonderful despite having a bit too much ease.    I stitched the zipper in permanently and  serged the waistband to it’s facing along the upper edge. But I basted all else using Water Soluble Thread before starting  the fitting.

To my delight there were several fit issues already  or very close to correct.

The waistband needed to be shortened 1/4″ ( by removing 1/8 from each center-front edge and redistributing the top of the leg along the waistband). Hardly noticeable and not much trouble.

The inseam length was correct!

The hem circumference was my very favorite, 18″

During fitting I found that both the center back leg seam and the inseam needed no further adjustments. Which means due to my initial pattern alterations , they were right and I could have serged  instead of basting.

The crotch lengths, both back and front, are either right, or so close I can’t tell. As with the inseam and back leg seam, the crotch could have been permanently sewn instead of basting.

My first alteration was the 1/4″ adjustment to the waistband. Immediately I launched into fixing the pooling and drooping along the side. I expected this error.  I knew how exactly how long the crotch and inseam needed to be. I knew the side seam needed to be shorter, but didn’t know how much.

Unfortunately. I was not able to completely eliminate the side droop. I was able to shorten the sides (back 1″ and the front 1-1/4″). Anymore and other issues developed. It was just too much change in the same place.  When I carried the change back to the tissue, I had to make two  corrections instead of  one i.e. i made two 1/2″ darts on back, and 2 3/8″ darts on the front. Otherwise, the tissue would buckle.

My 2nd not totally resolved  issue, was actually the circumference needed at the extreme points of both hip and tummy.  I needed all available fabric in both places but not between. As of this writing, I’m not sure I will ever be able to adjust that perfectly, but I may come close by making adjustments to the tissue before cutting fabric.

I did correct the tent which formed in the center  back. It was a simple change of the angle of the yoke and back crotch with a 1/4″ wedge/or fish eye dart over the yoke/leg conjunction.

Not even attempted were the legs which I would like to be closer fitting. I think jeans should be body conscious. I just don’t want you counting my hairs. KWIM?  I am disappointed that the back X’s have appeared. I have not scooped the crotch nor changed the angle (other than nipping off the tent). A third possibility is that my comfortable back crotch length needs to be shorter.

Right now, I feel like I’ve done what I can do with this cutting, this fabric.

(Final fitting. Pic on the Right is lightened 80%)

I need to copy all the changes to the tissue and make another pair.

(Final fitting. Pic on the Right is lightened 80%)

It’s amazing to me that sometimes I can make a garment fit despite the issues (thinking now of the pink jeans and my forcing it to work with a pocket that didn’t duplicate the front). Especially since I know the fabric can only be pushed and pulled so far off grain….

…before the draft needs to be fixed.  That’s the point I think I’m at.

So, Yeppers, I know I still have work to do. I need more ease at the prominent points of my hip and tummy. At the same time, I need less ease/circumference nearly every where else. I am still happy, very happy with the things that are right, are PERFECT (or so good I don’t know they are wrong) which would be:

  • Waist band width is my preferred 2″. (Usually I change this after I’ve fit and made a few pairs. This time, I wanted to start with what I love) (Egads! Shades of Peggy Sagers)
  • Waistband Length is perfect (Will be using a 1/4″ seam between waistband and facing; 1/2″ between waistband and top of leg.)
  • Inseam, both length and seam allowance, are perfect.
  • 18″ Hem circumference is my favorite.
  • Center back leg seam is perfect.
  • Back Crotch length perfect
  • Front Crotch length perfect.
  • Crotch curve is perfect

 

******

 

Is is possible that alterations to one of the unsat areas could cause these areas to need balancing or correcting But I’m happy with them now; not planning alterations; and will not baste them into place.

4 thoughts on “Fitting 906”

  1. If you’re interested in another experiment, here’s a suggestion that you could try in an old muslin pair to fix the back.

    What those back folds from the thigh/knee upward suggest to me is that you need more depth through the torso on the back. I struggled with it for years and then, as a result of some draping and pinning (with assistance) was able to transfer the change onto the paper pattern. There’s the long explanation or the ‘cut to the chase’ explanation. I’ll do the latter, with the net result fixes.

    In essence, the main thing I had to do was simply shift the whole torso toward the side seam for more room across the lower torso and the scoop the right spot on the back crotch curve.

    Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline, from side seam to crotch point, on the back pattern piece. Shift the torso part of the pattern about .75″ (to start) towards the side seam. Tape. True the side seam and inner leg seams.

    Try on your pant and then pinch/pin out how much you need to take out right below the lowest point on your crotch curve. It helps if you’re double jointed while doing this, of course:) Do this in increments, recording on the pattern itself the exact spot and depth for the changes to the stitching line.

    On mine, I turn the pant inside out, lay it over the pant pattern and pin that crotch seam so they match. Then I slip tracing paper under the pattern and use the tracing wheel to transfer my stitching line.

    FWIW, from experience, I learned that it’s better to deal with the back first and then the front.

  2. So delightful that you have such a beautiful garment! Another shade of Peggy… may I suggest you might need the secondary dart at the top of the thigh to eliminate the bagging below your tush? It may be that the depth there is a little too much fabric and that is causing the bagging… go watch one of her pant sessions to see what you think, but these are so nice I wouldn’t make big changes st this point. I am just a wee bit jealous now…congrats on a series of jobs well done!

    1. Great minds think alike! I was definitely considering that but I need to get enough ease across tummy and rear first. Will definitely keep this in mind.

      sdBev

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