I transfer changes back to the tissue. I didn’t cut the tissue. I carefully measured and marked and folded the new excess out of the way. I rounded the changes i.e. a 1 1/8″ change became a simple 1″. I was not fighting with measuring 1/16 or 1/32. Those are often a thread or two and I’ve said repeatedly if my pattern can’t abide a change of a thread or two, it’s not the pattern for me. I’m not a perfectionist sewer. I don’t like picky fussy clothes and and I don’t like picky fussy sewing.
Then I pick another nice fabric. It is 100% cotton in a novelty weave. A bit light in weight but comparable to many of my summer shorts. It’s just not a stiff denim twill which since 906 is a jeans pattern I feel I should be using a jean like fabric. At least for fitting. I cut my fabric and because I know the pattern still needs some adjusting, I serge finish all the edges before putting the zipper in with permanent stitching. I baste all the other seams with water soluble thread WST.
The first fitting and all the droop in front has returned:
I find this especially annoying. But also, I wonder why? Am I working on the wrong issue? Typically I find that if I fix an issue and it returns, then I’m not fixing the issue I’m fixing a symptom of the true issue. Like when the doc gives you aspirin for pneumonia. You need antibiotics. As long as he gives you aspirin your chances of recovery are low and you still look really sick. It’s not until I start attaching the waistband that I realize what is wrong. The front is too wide. How can it still have too much circumference? During fitting I took out 1 1/8″. I recheck and discover I’ve made the error Peggy’s always warns us about and why she prefers to use the fitted muslin for a pattern. I made the fitting change but did not transfer it to the tissue. I correct the tissue. Take apart all the stitching and recut the front. Also serge finish the new side seam and waist before using WST to put everything together again. That seems to have fixed nearly all the droop so I continue with Fitting 2; and then 3 and 4.
At fitting 4, I throw up my hands and declare “This is crazy”.
I’ve got rouching along the side seams
Rouching for which I have carefully and multiple times walked the side seams. I’m always careful to make the same amount of change to both front and back. Rouching? Rouching!
I’ve got bubbles in the waistband and below the waistband
At the same time the crotch is cutting into my own.
Which is does while concurrently looking like I have too much crotch length. And the last few changes to snug up the rear have re-created the front droop
Albeit that the droop is now almost in the leg instead of the tummy.
This is the worst fit so far. The worst fit in 5 test garments.
It should be getting better not worse. It should not be that hard to fit this pattern. I’ve always, like for the last 13 years, put a tape measure around my butt where it sticks out the furthest, and chosen a size based on the number read. I may need to take in the sides a little. I have scooped the crotch for some fabrics (but not most). I’ve tweaked the back seam under my bum to get it a little closer. But I’ve never made this many tests or these many adjustments. Never! I don’t think it is the method. I still think it should work to choose the size by the finished measurement. I think my finished measurement is wrong. I’ve started with far too big a size and struggled with tweaking it smaller through draping. I can’t brag that draping is working.
In sheer desperation, I pull out the tape measure and measure my bum. Look at the chart which says I’m between a 16 and an 18. I may be close enough to use a 16 but I trace the 18. Mostly because the very first test garment was a size 16 and I had such a hard time zipping it up! I take this pant as far apart as I can, (the zipper was put in permanently and I don’t want to rip); Then I compare the size 18 to the fabric. I’m thinking I’ll just cut this modified 20 to an 18 and start from there.
Except, the modified 20 is now smaller than the 18. Can’t recut. Complicating that process is that I’ve taken so much from the side seams that the sides are shorter than the 18. Can’t start over with a straight 18 on this fabric.
I can use fresh fabric. But will that work? If this test is smaller than the default 18 I’m going to be tweaking the size downward again. So far I’ve made massive changes without success. I’m doubtful of that process. But the 16, the size smaller, was too small. While the 20 crotch length was needed in the back. Looking at the pant above, I’m not sure if I need an even longer back crotch because the crotch is cutting into me but all those diagonals indicate the back crotch is too long.
I’m going to put this aside for a day or two while I contemplate my approach. I really want to start with the right size. I still believe in this pattern. I just think I’m going about it in the wrong way.