As I was making the changes for Fit03, I realized there wasn’t much more I could change. I’d already let out the seam allowances to the max. I wouldn’t be taking those suckers in. I might scoop the crotch but so far the crotch looked fine. It was ease across the butt that concerned me. I might fold the waistband casing a little differently, but not much. So why was I basting? I switched out the WST bobbin and finished the pants in total.
I did let out the back crotch that barely 1/8″.
Please note the two colors of lines. The orange line is the original 3/8″ stitching line which goes all the way around the curve. I let out above the curve stitching on the purple line just across from the fullest part of my butt. The crotch curve itself was unchanged which is especially important. Nearly all the time time I must scoop the bottom of the crotch. Depending upon fabric and on occasion, even my beloved TJ906 will need scoping. I have not scooped Sally although I admit that might be a possibility if in the future I try again to remove some ease over the back crotch.
I also folded the cut edge of the waist down 1.25″ at CF and CB. At the side seams the fold is 2″. After stitching at 1.25″ from the folded edge I trimmed the waist SA to be an even 1/4″. I did press. I put the pants on and walked about for 3 or 4 minutes before taking pics. I wanted them to settle into place. Truthfully, I expected my pants to look a little better.
yet, I’m not entirely unhappy. I won’t be able to wear these over another pair of pants and I will depend upon a 3rd layer to cover my tush. At least there isn’t any VPL and the diagonals are significantly reduced. Bottom line, these are hanging in my closet for possible wear. Compared side by side or as the processors may rearrange First Fitting above 3rd
The 3rd fitting does look better.
I’m not sure what to think about the underlining. I don’t recall an underlining changing size. I don’t remember needing additional ease for underlining or even sewing at a 1/2″ instead of 5/8″ SA. But I know my Sally I looked (to me) like it fit in the butt while Sally 2 looks too tight.
An interesting note is that I intended to attempt reducing the excess ease over the thigh. However, after releasing the side seams and adding ease from waist to hem, I didn’t notice the excess ease. Is this because of the added ease? The difference in fabrics? The difference in fibers? A result of underlining? All I know is that I dont feel like I’m grabbing or experiencing excess ease over the thigh.
I’ve added 3/4″ ease to the back pattern piece. I did so by splitting along the SOG, inserting new tissue and taping back together. This does mean I’ve added 3/4″ at the waist, the complained about thigh and hem. This is not what I want for a year round trouser. Not even for the summer trouser. For the summer trouser, I will add another inch of ease, shared between front and back. For the fall/winter? I’m still thinking.