I’m so excited about Peggy Sagers fitting process. I’ve decided to re-fit all my favorite pants patterns using that process. However this isn’t
going according to plan.
I can’t post photos. I’m using a black woven, non-stretch fabric with a leopard flocked print. It’s gorgeous in person but photos poorly. Very poorly.
I started by tossing my previous fitted pattern and tracing a new copy from the master pattern. I made a muslin. I was not being overconfident. I made a muslin which I also cannot show. Rats! My pants fabrics even the designed pants muslin do not photo well. But I followed procedure. I settled the crotch into position then pinched the dart at the hip. Baste and check. Pinch in the horseshoe dart around the upper leg. Baste and check. Then check the leg length and adjust. Looks good, or at least I thought it did. My only complaint, the only thing I could see in the muslin was that the crotch would need scooping. I transferred my changes back to the tissue and cut my fabric. I finished the waistband. With this pattern that has been a given. Once I knew the length of the elastic my concern was stitching front waistband piece to back waistband piece without creating a hump at the join. I’ve avoided the hump though changing the instructions slightly. I serge the side seams together before adding the elastic in the back. Then serge the long bottom edge both finishing that edge and securing the pieces together. I continued by serge finishing the crotch and side seams. Serged the inseam. Then using a 4mm long stitch, stitched the crotch, side seams and the waistband to pant leg. Again, didn’t look bad at picture time so I proceeded to scoop the crotch 1/2″. I wasn’t sure that was enough depth. After all, the hip dart I pinched removed 1″ in length from the back crotch length. I decided to wear the pants and see how they felt.
Well it was terrible. The center back pulled down and the whole back seemed to want to creep under my butt and forward. I cut a slit on the inside of the waistband and removed length from the elastic. I was hoping to snug the pant back to my body back. Improved but not totally the answer. Still wants to sag at the center back while creeping under and forward. I think “that crotch length needs to be fully restored”. I was good with the total length on previous pairs. So I scoop the back crotch another 1/2″.
It does feel more comfortable but it still sags and wants to creep under and forward. I decide that the issue could be the elastic. It’s a soft elastic and is placed only in the back. When I ‘fix’ RTW, I add elastic that goes all the way around front back and back to front. I cut a full 34″ of elastic and tack it into place along the front and back crotch and side seams. Now the pants stay in place at my waist but OMG they look terrible. I have a ‘keyhole’ front (thank you Martina for that term). OK I’ll try to post pics:
A baggy, draggy back
even the side looks weird:
Definitely a WTF experience. Lesson learned: I should not expect Peggy’s process to work with every pattern and secondly, I should fit the muslin to perfection before cutting the good fabric. Even if it takes a 2nd muslin. I will take a sec to defend Peggy. She says repeatedly that her instructions are designed to help you fit her Silhouette patterns. Her instructions are based upon her draft. Clearly someone else’s draft may not work the same. Even though there are pattern-drafting standards, there are also many deviations from the standards. It would be unfair, even obnoxious for me to blame her for this failure.
The real downer here is that I destroyed the tissue which did fit. If I want to use this exact pattern again, I need to go through the fitting process all over. Whoops, I just realized this pattern never fit me!! Looking way back into my archive I see that I did not ever have a great fitting pattern. So that calls for a new direction. I think instead of fitting the Talia, I’ll borrow the waistband and use it with PP113.
Hmm (muttering to self) wonder if I can recover enough of the fabric for use in different pair of pants….