2016/5-11

Otto #11 Long Pants

I love my Otto #11 5/2016 pants. Except for the lantern leg part. Now that I’ve got all my winter pants out, I discovered that I have 5 pairs with a lantern leg variation. I don’t like to wear them. They are too casual.  Too much like sweat pants. So why do I love to see this style on other ladies?  I don’t know. But I do like the fit of these #11’s and want to make them the right length without the lantern part.

I pull out the pattern and after some self-debate add 4″ length to the leg at the bottom. I continue the inseam and side seams at the same angle so it may add a little circumference at the hem. A little, I can offset later. I walk the seams because I’ve found every alteration is a built-in opportunity for error.

Then I choose a fabric.  Not too sure about this fabric. It’s a firm Ponte which should be good for pants but seems a little light for pants, especially winter pants. Still it will make a decent muslin even if the black photos poorly. It’s already fit, right? So the question should be: have I created the right leg length for me and maybe does adding leg length have an effect on drape.

I cut the fabric and start the relatively quick sew. It fits, right? So I continue confidently as if I making a 4th pair. I top stitch a faux-fly because I like the look and also top stitch a faux front-pocket.  I like the look of these details but don’t want to spend much time.  The more I handle this fabric the more I think it’s not a good choice for pants but maybe OK for a muslin and even winter long johns.  I should add that it has 25% stretch. My previous fabric had 20 and 30%. Being right in the middle of that stretch range, I expect the pants to feel nice. They don’t.

Even after scooping the crotch, they look weird:

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I think it’s safe to say they are too tight and that the crotch, even double scooped, is too short. This is just an ugly pair of pants complete with camel toe.  To my disgust the hem circumference is about 20″.  I’m continually seeking that pattern with a slim leg of about 16-18″. I can do better with PP113 and the Eureka’s  The only redeeming feature in this pair I see is that I may have added the right length for the leg.   Now stitched up, I truly hate this fabric. Don’t even want to wear it as long johns.  I’m wondering how I can avoid a future purchase. Part of me says, I really should finish this pair of pants. Learn what it takes to correct the pattern.  Another part of me says, be done with it. Quit ruining fabric. Go back to the TNT’s and work them.  I made this post just so in the future I can remind myself why I quit using the pattern 1) don’t like sweat suit type pants; and 2) the last version (this one) sucks.

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Talia

Talia A Puzzling Development

I’m so excited about Peggy Sagers fitting process. I’ve decided to re-fit all my favorite pants patterns using that process. However this isn’t

going according to plan.

I can’t post photos.  I’m using a black woven, non-stretch fabric with a leopard flocked print.  It’s gorgeous in person but photos poorly. Very poorly.

I started by tossing my previous fitted pattern and tracing a new copy from the master pattern. I made a muslin. I was not being overconfident. I made a muslin which I also cannot show.  Rats! My pants fabrics even the designed pants muslin do not photo well.  But I followed procedure. I settled the crotch into position then pinched the dart at the hip.  Baste and check. Pinch in the horseshoe dart around the upper leg. Baste and check. Then check the leg length and adjust. Looks good, or at least I thought it did. My only complaint, the only thing I could see in the muslin was that the crotch would need scooping.  I transferred my changes back to the tissue and cut my fabric. I finished the waistband. With this pattern that has been a given. Once I knew the length of the elastic my concern was stitching front waistband piece to back waistband piece without creating a hump at the join.  I’ve avoided the hump though changing the instructions slightly. I serge the side seams together before adding the elastic in the back. Then serge the long bottom edge both finishing that edge and securing the pieces together.  I continued by serge finishing the crotch and side seams. Serged the inseam. Then using a 4mm long stitch, stitched the crotch, side seams and the waistband to pant leg. Again, didn’t look bad at picture time so I proceeded to scoop the crotch 1/2″.  I wasn’t sure that was enough depth. After all, the hip dart I pinched removed 1″ in length from the back crotch length. I decided to wear the pants and see how they felt.

Well it was terrible. The center back pulled down and the whole back seemed to want to creep under my butt and forward.  I cut a slit on the inside of the waistband and removed length from the elastic. I was hoping to snug the pant back to my body back. Improved but not totally the answer. Still wants to sag at the center back while creeping under and forward. I think “that crotch length needs to be fully restored”.  I was good with the total length on previous pairs.  So I scoop the back crotch another 1/2″.

It does feel more comfortable but it still sags and wants to creep under and forward. I decide that the issue could be the elastic. It’s a soft elastic and is placed only in the back.  When I ‘fix’ RTW, I add elastic that goes all the way around front back and back to front. I cut a full 34″ of elastic and tack it into place along the front and back crotch and side seams. Now the pants stay in place at my waist but OMG they look terrible. I have a ‘keyhole’ front (thank you Martina for that term).  OK I’ll try to post pics:

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A baggy, draggy back

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even the side looks weird:

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Definitely a WTF  experience.  Lesson learned: I should not expect Peggy’s process to work with every pattern and secondly, I should fit the muslin to perfection before cutting the good fabric. Even if it takes a 2nd muslin. I will take a sec to defend Peggy. She says repeatedly that her instructions are designed to help you fit her Silhouette patterns.  Her instructions are based upon her draft.  Clearly someone else’s draft may not work the same. Even though there are pattern-drafting standards, there are also many deviations from the standards. It would be unfair, even obnoxious for me to blame her for this failure.

The real downer here is that I destroyed the tissue which did fit. If I want to use this exact pattern again, I need to go through the fitting process all over.  Whoops, I just realized this pattern never fit me!! Looking way back into my archive I see that I did not ever have a great fitting pattern. So that calls for a new direction. I think instead of fitting the Talia, I’ll borrow the waistband and use it with PP113.

 

Hmm (muttering to self) wonder if I can recover enough of the fabric for use in different pair of pants….