After making my tissue changes, I selected a wonderful fabric. Surprisingly, it’s a Joann’s Rayon Ponte. The inside looks like you expect of Ponte but the outside is a nice smooth knit that is wonderful to touch. This fabric is beefy — I wouldn’t wear it in the blazing heat of summer. Marked at 50% off, I paid $15/yard. Wish I had bought more, but I’m not sure how well the rayon ponte holds up.
I finished the waistband first thing, again. using the Wawak elastic. Skipped pockets. Didn’t even top stitch to give the appearance of front pockets. Stitched the yokes and crotch permanently but decided up water-soluble thread for side seams and waistband attachment. I pinned the hems up and took the first pics. OMG these are near perfect! I have some horizontal wrinkles at the knee, totally acceptable to me. I’m going to wear these a time or two and take more pics. Garments can hang a bit differently after they’ve been on your body. Denim is famous for this.
So I replaced the WST with permanent stitching. Used a blind hem for my pants and took Final pics. This ponte is such a dark blue that even lightened 100% It’s difficult to see. However the front is near perfect:
as is the side:
Looking at the WB I think I’ve shortened the back elastic a bit much. That’s more of a feeling then being able to point out a definite issue. I do think that I still need to shorten the side seams bout the hip about 1/4″
The back has a couple of issues. I feel it pulling down at CB waist. I need to add a little length. The crotch has been scooped 3/4″. That’s usually more than enough. It does feel comfortable which can be attributed as much to the fabric as the fit. Those horizontal wrinkles I saw at fitting have been joined by more diagonals above the knee. I’m questioning exactly the issue. Is the hip to knee-length too long for this particular fabric? I shortened that area another 1/2″ making it a total of 2″ shorter. 2″ is what I’ve used on the other pants which fit nicely. This Ponte had 30% widthwise stretch. No appreciable lengthwise stretch. I mean, I feel it give, but when I try to measure lengthwise stretch I keep coming up with ZERO. When that happens usually I think the widthwise stretch has somehow also become diagonal/bias stretch. What is astonishing to me is how well these look at the first fitting and how much/badly that changed just a day later from hanging in the closet.
I stand by my decision to wear them a few times and see what happens. They could shrink a little. Denim is infamous for growing; Rayon for shrinking. If it shrinks, I’m betting 90% of the wrinkles disappear.
Note to self: Possible tissue alterations
- 1/4″ under waist dart
- spread 1/4″ at CB below waist.
- leg may need to be shortened for 4-way stretch or 30%+stretch fabrics.