sdBev's Pants!

New Eleanor’s

Posted on: October 7, 2016

  • In: Eleanor
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Now this will sound insane, but I’m refitting Jalie’s Eleanor.  Yes my great fitting pattern that doesn’t need to be refit. The thing is I’ve discovered that I need new blue jeans. Specifically blue colored jeans.  I also want to know if Peggy Sager’s pants fitting procedure is reliable or if easily fitting  Otto #11 5/2016 was a fluke. So I’m starting from scratch, almost.  I know what I had to do to fit the 11’s.  I’m going to repeat that and modify Peggy’s procedure through these steps:

  • Trace size CC
  • Shorten the leg 1.5″
  • Remove 1″ at hip level (dart)
  • 1″ inseam horseshoe dart
  • Scoop crotch 1/2″
  • Use Seam Allowances
    • side seam front 1/2″
    • side seam back 3/4″ (my prominent seat always needs a little extra ease
    • Crotch 3/8″
    • All else 1/4″

I selected a fairly recently acquired fabric. Bought at a time when large florals were popular for pants.  Didn’t think I could do the large florals but an ice-dye print? Maybe. However, it has marinated for 3-4 years because I just can’t see myself wearing something like this. I think if will make a fine muslin.  If the first fit is successful I can use it as PJ’s to gauge DH’s reaction. If he’s negative, I know I won’t want to wear it publicly.  This fabric is a cotton/poly/lycra twill with a built-in lining. The lining is a very thin, almost transparent batiste. Not sure how the two layers are attached because the fabric still has the required 20% stretch.

I finish the waistband immediately. It’s satisfying to having something done so quickly. I’m using Wawak’s braided elastic .  It’s a little firmer than Louise Cuttings famous elastic. No matter how much I shortened Louise’s elastic it would stretch some more and this type of pant would droop. Wawak’s  stitches easily. Slides up over my butt without problems and holds at the waist without dropping slightly through the day.  I also permanently stitched the crotch and back pocket pieces.  I had taped the front pockets pieces to the pattern and cut them on the pant front. When I started sewing, I top stitched to give an appearance of a front pocket. Hey these pockets aren’t big enough to hold a key. Mostly they just rumple up and have to be pressed to stay flat. Top stitching gives me the look of front pockets without the fiddly sewing of such itty bitty pieces.  Side seams, yoke, hems and attaching waistband to pant were all stitched with water-soluble thread (WST).

 

I’m going to cut to the chase. I  tweaked the muslin 5 times.

3 of those tweaks were because I wimped. With the last pair of Eleanors I had decided the AA length was perfect for me. I wimped when I realized I would be shortening the back crotch length (taking the CB dart doesn’t just pull up the bottom part of the pant).  I thought the extra 1/2″ the CC length would be needed. Nope.

The other 2 tweaks involved scooping the crotch. I have that supposedly rare high-low anomaly i.e. the bottom of my crotch is not parallel with the floor. It is tilted upwards towards the front. Even the easily fit Eureka’s, PP113s and TJ906 needed to be scooped just a little (1/4″). I did scoop the back crotch tissue but I scooped in the wrong place. It may be easier to show:

00scoop_resize

On the left in red, I scooped the tissue in the well of the crotch.  I should have extended the crotch upright down then curved upward (left side purple).  When extending the stitching to the front, the front curve is changed slightly. Just enough that front and back meet smoothly over the inseam. Then I trim the SA to 3/8″.   I stitched the final side seams at 1/4″ instead of the 1/2″ I allowed. I don’t like this ‘reveal everything’  trend. I want my garment to skim my curves. Letting out those seams was just enough for me.

Note I needed to adjust the exposure of the pictures to clearly see the drag lines. The fabric is  much darker than the pics.

 

fpjlight_resize

I still have a few issues.  The leg is too long and has to be adjusted above the knee.  I’m shorter from hip crease to knee than the average person. I know that because anytime the legs are shaped, I can’t hack the fabric off the bottom to fix the fit issue.  The side seam between waistband and hip crease is too long.  I can tell because I can pinch the side seam and remove a substantial number of drag lines on side, front, back.  To correct the length any more on this muslin, I’d need to remove the triple-stitched back pockets. (Why did I put pockets on a muslin?) There is a time when you can no longer tweak the fabric. You have to change the tissue and cut new fabric.

For the next pair I plan these steps :

  • Trace size CC width AA length (1/2″ less length than CC)
  • Shorten the leg 2″ above knee
  • Remove 1/2″ at hip (dart)
  • 1″ inseam horseshoe dart
  • Scoop crotch 3/4″ (extending the back crotch upright not in the well as done on this muslin)
  • Use Seam Allowances
    • side seam 1/2″  by adding
      • front 3/4
      • back 1″ (I add 1/4″ extra ease to the back hip whether it’s tops or bottoms. Helps to cover my prominent seat.)
    • Crotch 3/8″
    • All else 1/4″
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