Talia

Talia Shorts

I have a few groupings of odd colored fabrics. Odd in that I don’t normally purchase these particular colors. Since buying on-line has become my major source of fabrics, more of these odd colors make it into the stash. If I acquire enough of any particular color, I can make Collections. Otherwise these will become my muslin stash.  I’m working with a fabric today that I purchased in a store (so I have no excuse for color mis-choice)  fully intended that it be summer pants. I had two other fabrics that worked with it well. I made a sleeveless, button front blouse 2 years ago.  Last year I made a pullover trapeze blouse (also sleeveless) but the pants fabric went back on the shelf with a note ‘not enough for slacks’.  At the time only PP113 fit nicely but wouldn’t work with this fabric because the fabric shrank in the wash. I had 1-3/4 yard instead of the 2-1/4 purchased and a width limitation (44″).  It is a 100% cotton, so I expected some shrinkage… just not this much. I love this particular type fabric for summer pants. It’s like a light weight duck fabric. It’s a plain weave, with visible threads. The threads are soft. Between the feel and the absorbancy of cotton, it’s just wonderful for summer wear.

I decided to use the Talia because, well I know it fits, but also it has a slimmer leg which translates to a smaller foot print when I lay out the pattern pieces. The two pattern-piece waistband can fit on any large scrap. Have you noticed garment sewing tends to create large scraps that aren’t large enough to make another garment but not good for quilting either?   I opted to cut ankle length pants and folded up the pattern-legs 3″.  After that, I had a little excess — 2-3″– instead of definite shortage.

Taking my own advice, I put the waistband together first. Unfortunately, I stitched with all-purpose thread instead of water-soluble. Unfortunate because the waistband was too loose.  Well the real culprit here is the new elastic.  I purchased 1.25 and 1.5″  sports elastic from Wawak.  It, like CLD’s elastic, is too soft. It doesn’t hold it’s length but easily relaxes. That’s fine when you don’t mind your WB sliding down an inch or so.  In my case it is important that the waistband stay in place. Otherwise the combination of high-low crotch anomaly and high protruding seat will pull the back of the pant downward until it puddles between buttock and knee. I was loath, I say l-o-a-t-h to rip the waistband apart. We’re talking the two side seams and 4 lines of stitching through elastic. I opted to stitch the side seams at 7/8″ instead of 3/8″. Which was a gross mistake.  I thought I would be easing a mere 1/2″ each quadrant of pant to each quadrant of waistband. Nope, I had inches to ease in each quadrant that didn’t want to ease. I ran a gathering line and gathered the waistband to the pant which is pathetic. You make an elastic waistband so that the waistband does all the gathering and easing for you. But it’s what I had to do.  The first try on completely stunned me. As in “I thought I had this fit???”

I had big, back X wrinkles:

Front hip poofs

and I’m at a total loss of words for the side view:

I don’t remember these issues in previous versions of the Talia. So, do I admit defeat and toss these?  It would be easy to say the wrong elastic ruined the fit and be done with it.  But I do have 2 maybe 3 blouses that coordinate nicely. 3 blouses plus this pair of pants and I have a small summer collection.

I opted for shorts.  I’ve noticed in the past that most of the back wrinkles simply disappear when I make a pant  pattern is made into shorts; and it worked this time.

OK there is still one V back there.  I’ve scooped the crotch 1/4″ and need to scoop it again because the perfectly even hem is lopsided. It is being pulled upwards by the crotch which is also trying to snuggle between my buns.

I  trimmed 3/4″ from the top of the front leg while keeping the same length at CF and CB. Think of my waistline as a roller coaster track instead of hula hoop circle.  I’m surprised the pattern doesn’t already reflect my roller-coaster shape. So I could could have a pattern issue that the previous fabric and elastic were able to overcome.  Currently, the side does look slightly better

but I’m not sure about the front

My right side drops nicely into place with only a little upward twitch of the inseam hem. No idea what the left side is doing. I removed the waistband; aligned the top edges of the pants (front with front, back with back) and pinned into place before drawing and trimming a measured line along the top.  The curve I created is the same on both fronts and both backs.  I have not attempted to compensate for a higher hip because I’m not sure that’s one of my issues.  I often see a hint in the back of blouses which disappears when I compensate for my right, lower shoulder. I know have a lower shoulder issue, I’m not sure I have a hip issue as well.  This is  one of those times when I’m grateful for the blouse lengths I prefer because the planned blouses make this short look good

Ignore face. This was at the end of a frustrating sewing session.

I realize I won’t be wearing these shorts for long anyway. The second blouse I planned to wear was made 2 years ago and has shrunk

Ok so it’s my donuts-to-dancing ratio that’s off and the blouse didn’t shrink I grew. Either case, I won’t be wearing the blouse especially after seeing the back view

 

 

Kinda of sad about that because this blouse contained beautiful cutwork I did with the embroidery machine. Even with the machine to help, cut work is a delicate, lengthy process. Trimming those little openings will make you cross eyed if not blind. This blouse is ‘me’; the romantic, feminine me.  I hate to see it go. But I have a policy of wearing what I love and what looks best on me. When something becomes too large or too small, I donate.  I tell myself, “I’ll have the pleasure of making something new if I get to that size again.”

I have a 3rd possible blouse

… which is too tight just above my elbow. Apparently Zumba and Cize do nothing for that area of the arm.  It’s 100% rayon crepe and I’m pretty sure it is shrinking rather than me growing.  I rarely wear my rayons more than 2 years. Between pilling an shrinking they just don’t last.  I was surprised that this blouse looks as nicely as it does. I expect a stripe and a print to clash badly. It looks better IRL — do keep in mind this is at the end of the day and a frustrating sewing session.

So my Talia shorts aren’t completely done but you won’t see any updates.  I need to scoop the crotch another 1/4″ and I need to make the pants shorter. This isn’t the best length for me especially with my preferred blouse length. I determined short length on-the-fly. I’m not sure what to do with the Talia pattern itself. I do think I’ve gotten the crotch too short. The snuggle-between-the-buns look has been going on (but much lesser) for several Talia’s. BUT I have the wrong elastic. Walmart’s elastic is better for me because it is stiff and stays where I want — except I never find 1.25 or 1.5″ widths. So far all the elastics I’ve tried have been soft and intended for pants that would slide downward on the body–something I don’t want.  I want to know that when I put my pants on the waist will be in the same place every day, all day. Not getting there with these ‘better’ elastics.

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