Talia, Day 2

I went upstairs after creating the Diagonal Dart fully intending to transfer it to the tissue at the next sewing session and make Muslin 2.  But I got to thinking. Thinking about the alterations I’ve made in prior years; successful or not.  I reread my posts on the near perfect jeans, Jalie Eleanor and also my posts on Knock Knee and crotch  alterations. I toyed again with the idea of Peggy Sagers dart at hip level.  Peggy describes fully how she drafts pants including adding the hip dart in the May 1997 Threads magazine (Issue 70).  Later in the same article she describes how to fit pants including reducing the dart depth. Peggy is the only one I’ve ever heard (read or whatever) talking about  this particular dart. She suggests this dart is common place in both RTW and commercial patterns. But, like I said, she’s the only one I’ve seen discuss the hip dart.  This morning, I searched the net without success looking for it. (Wrong search terms?j)  I opened up my email and started corresponding with my sewing angel. 3-4 emails later I decide: I’ve got this muslin. It won’t take 5 minutes to test.

And that’s what I did. I created a 1″ deep dart just under the full hip (middle pic)

Left Unaltered; Center 1″ dart; Right 1.5″ dart


I’ve gotten some feed back that the dart needs to be at the inseam right under the seating tissue rather than at the crotch. If so,  I believe that is a Flat Seat Alteration, which I’ve tried in the past. It makes the muslin fit beautifully. I transfer the dart to the tissue. Make a new muslin. All, absolutely every one of the fabric folds reappear.  I’m not willing to repeat that week-long exercise in futility. I tested various dart depths on several patterns.  For me, the result was always the same: muslin beautiful, real garment fugly. Not doing that again BUT I’m willing to work with the different dart Peggy described in the magazine referenced above.  

Amazingly, when increased to 2″ depth, the Hip Line Dart easily cleared most of the back-thigh mess including what I had thought were knock knee drag lines!  I may have some  asymmetrical hip action to deal with; and clearly the center back has dipped very low.  Not showing, the front has developed some camel toe issues and from the side the waistband is tilted like the ski slope you wanted to find on your winter vacation.

So now I have a dilemma.  Do I use the proven-to-work-for-my-body Diagonal Dart; or do I use the simpler Hip Dart?  The hip dart will require a balancing dart higher up the crotch to restore crotch length.  The Diagonal Dart will require a balancing dart lower on the leg inseam to make the hem level.

I did think to compare the Diagonal Dart with the Hip Line dart. Keep in mind that I made the Diagonal Dart is only on the right leg i.e. only consider the right leg when comparing to the Hip Line dart which was made across both legs:

Either are better than the unaltered muslin :

The Diagonal Dart  is getting close to perfection. While I may want to remove more ease from the leg with the Hip Line dart.

Which leg would you rather wear?

Which alteration would you rather make?

3 thoughts on “Talia, Day 2”

  1. This isn’t a problem I have had to deal with. Reading your fitting trials makes me want to both weep for your troubles and bow down before your persistence.
    The hip line dart seems to work well but created other problems(?) . The classic for every action there is a reaction.
    I would go with the simpler option, it seems not to create quite so much chaos. Bear in mind that while you are looking for the perfect fit 90% of the population would probably be impressed by any of the trousers you make – they buy RTW.

    1. I prefer the easiest, most elegant solution but it doesn’t always work for me.

      Thanks for your sympathy and moral support. You may think it’s nothing, but I assure it is like someone giving me a hug.


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