Flo, StyleArc

Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo

I’ve been interested in this pattern since it was issued.  That may not make sense because I’ve repeatedly said I have a thick, tilted waist; protruding butt; and mildly knock knees. Oh and I’m short.  But I repeatedly found that I add ease where my butt fits into the pattern and then spend endless iterations trying to remove the excess ease over my back thigh.  The alterations I use are very similar to a flat bottom alteration. I wondered if Style Arc might have already offset the issue for me. I didn’t buy.  There is the whole international order process which is expensive.  There is also the fact I was unable to fit my only previous version of a Style Arc pant pattern.  So what has changed?  Well I took J Sterns Craftsy course and found a procedure for fitting which worked perfectly with Jalie’s Eleanor pant.  Then there is the new listings on Amazon which means I buy locally or at least within US avoiding all the International stuff while still receiving a paper pattern.  The frosting on the cake, so to speak, was the 25% coupon off Style Arc issued for March.  With the stars aligned, I purchased.

Despite my grousing about fit, I decided not to rush but to give this pattern a real chance.  The first thing I hunted for was recommended fabrics.  Which are bengaline or stretch woven.  I miss that SA did not specify a stretch factor. Bengaline is not a common US fabric and stretch wovens can vary greatly. I turned my attention to sizing.  I’m larger than a 14 but significantly smaller than 16.  I do know that the European Cut which SA seems to employ is much more body conscious.  Also I follow a couple of Aussie sewing bloggers.  They all complain about the US companies’ excess ease.  Because I prefer  semi to loose-fitting, I chose to copy the size laeger, i.e. the 16

When the pattern arrived, I eagerly folded out the pages to evaluate the pattern. Flo is similar to Jalie’s Eleanor in that it has a front, and back with yoke.  Eleanor uses a two piece waistband comprised of 2 pattern pieces.  Flo has a single pattern piece which you cut twice.  There is a slight difference in how the elastic is applied. One piece, instead of two, elastic is cut and stitched to the waistband with one row of 3-step zig zag.  Flo has no pocket options where as Eleanor with all the pockets is very jean-like. The back of the Flo wraps around to the front. From the illustration, it would appear there is some kind of front pocket. Not having finished the garment, I don’t know if will the final appearance.  I’m rather curious too about that wrap around effect. I’ve heard designers love it because it makes you look slender from the front view. Is the reverse true?  I mean is my butt going to look even bigger?

As planned, I traced the size 16.  I measured waist, hip, thigh, crotch, basically I followed J Sterns fitting procedure. I made one fitting change.  I removed 2″ length above the knee. Otherwise I though I was seeing ZERO but not negative ease–but only because I chose the size larger. Had I chosen the recommended size, I would have needed to alter the pattern for ZERO ease.   I decided to ‘stack the fitting deck’ in my favor by adding 3/4″ at the side and inseams also to the top of the pant front and top of the leg of the pant back.

At that, I went upstairs for the evening.  I had some kind of  bronchitis last week that has taken the wind from my sails  The hour’s work left me perspiring and shaky.  Definitely needed a sit down.


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