6017-LoriAnn Fit to Flatter

LA6017 Conclusion

By the time I finished 6 fittings,  I was ready to call this pattern a bust. At least for me.  Usually I do nothing to the front of pants beyond leaving out the front darts.  From time to time, I need to scoop the front crotch between 1/8-1/4″ to rid the area of whiskers. But it’s not big deal. Seldom needed.  Pant fronts are usually beautiful for me.

It is the pants back with which I struggle. I need a longer back extension.  My rear is high and full even now that I’m claiming 6 decades and rapidly approaching my 7th decade of living.  It’s the stairs guys. Stairs definitely lift the tush.  Point is,  for pants I need more fullness in back than most women.  The last issue which I seldom overcome, is excess ease over the back thigh.  Sometimes it is related to the pant not being able to slip up and over my tush.  The pant is kept lower like plumber’s butt because the pant iss not wide enough to slip over the hump which is my rump.  People, even experts, look at my pants and advise either a flat butt alteration or adding length to the upper extension.  Neither have ever solved my issues. In fact adding more length to the upper extension creates a bubble directly beneath my waistband and feathers all along the CB seam! Don’t read me wrong here. I always read carefully and consider the advice I receive. Don’t stop commenting or making recommendations.  I’m always hopeful that someone will have the elegant, simple solution. After all, I’m not horribly disfigured.  I look like most middle-aged women I know.

I did 7 pairs of Eleanor’s because with every new version I thought I was one tweak away from perfection.  With every tweak I do of LA6017 I seem to take one step forward and one back. After 6 fittings I’m no closer to a good fit — not perfect just wearable — than I was when I cut the fabric.

I slept on it.  The best way to get my creative left brain working and solving the problem.  Somewhere during the evening I realized I had not increased the length of the back crotch extension.  I’d planned for it.  Added tissue and cut a longer back extension in fabric but I’d never sewn the longer extension.

For the 7th fitting I ripped out the inseam between knee and crotch and aligned the inseam edges so that I would be sewing a 1″ longer back crotch with the inseam would tapering back to default stitching line at the knee. Fit 07:

While the back is somewhat improved (Step Forward)  the front is hideous (Step Backward) and the once perpendicular side seam is leaning towards the back (Backward Step 2). The front is worst than ever. The front was better in fit 1 through 6. It’s important to me to note that:   I didn’t change a thing on the front. I stitched the front inseam on the same line as  previously stitched.

 

I’m done.

This pattern is not going to work for me.  That does happen to me frequently. While I’m not hideously deformed, I also don’t conform to any standard table of measurements. It takes a drafter well experienced with women’s figures to create pant patterns I can use.  These drafters incorporate a variety of alterations and point out when and how to use them or how to eliminate the alteration for your figure.

But what about you? It’s hard for me to make a recommendation.

  • I definitely have a combination of figure issues that most people don’t experience.  Do you? What are your fitting issues?
  • I lack expert fitting skills. I might call myself intermediate. What is your level of expertise?
  • The pattern did have a nice deep U crotch.
  • The back crotch was higher than the front.
    • Crotch shape and height are two design choices which solve a lot of pant issues.
  • The extra seams in the legs are good for people with circumference issues.
    • Long ago, Sandra Betzina  pointed out that many people could use a size 12 for the back and 14 for the front ( vice versa and different sizes applicable).  If you are one of those people, this pattern could help.
  • I”m have mixed emotions about the basic drafting.
    • The seams walked perfectly.
    • I still wonder if I missed a change in seam allowances. I mean, the pant was drafted for someone with an extra inch on her butt. Why was it necessary for me to let out all the center leg seams , back and front, to have sufficient ease?  Especially since I chose to use  a size larger than me? I double checked my hip and waist  circumferences just to be sure. In a way I dislike like seeing my specific numbers but in another way I’m glad not to be yo-yoing up and down.  Being a consistent measurement helps when fitting. Helps when evaluating.
    • I’m still dumb-founded by the two places that the size lines merged into a 1/4″ solid line.  I traced my size from hem to solid line and again from waist to solid line. Then used my french curve to join the two points through the solid line.  Since I used a size 16, the line I drew curved more to the outside of the solid line. Something I thought reasonable, but always wondered if I made the right choice.
    • The lack of notches, circles and other pattern notations bothers me.
      •  There were notches for the center back and center front leg pieces.
      •  I used the knee shorten/lengthen as notches because I know that legs will twist if the fabric doesn’t match between knee and hem.
      • The lack of notches for the pocket confused me so much, I made my own notches.
      • Written instruction to sew up to a certain point (for the zipper) is more complex/less elegant than simply placing a dot . Also, it’s non-standard and likely to be missed.
    • Point is:  The more standard notations used, the easier it is for the end-user/customer to understand AND  produce good results.
  • I’m also surprised by the lack of reviews and blog posts. There were none about the pant pattern. (That I could find.)
    • I know Shams did an excellent review of one of the jackets, but has never mentioned the line again. Then again, Shams has completely different fitting issues from my own and is incredibly bold and accurate with her alterations.  She’s made huge successes of patterns that were dismal failures for me. I greatly admire Shams but I don’t ever expect to be as good as she is.
    • Of the 3 reviews I found, 1  (i.e. 33% or 1/3) was negative because the end result didn’t look like the drawing.
      • From the drawing I expected the pant to sit waist-high.  Had I not changed the SA’s of the waistband, my pant would sit at the low-rise level.
      • Based on that experience, I agree with the negative evaluation. My finished pant would not have looked like the illustration.

 

 

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