sdBev's Pants!

Archive for December 2015

 

The ‘Bank Line’ pics above tell me that DH has nothing to be ashamed of and neither do I.  I might want to think about lengthening my blouses if I’m going to continue wearing  slim pants without a 3rd layer. My vests or other 3rd layers will cover up the issues I object to.  Overall, I’m pleasantly surprised. I did think I might have to acknowledge this as a definite muslin and throw it pant away.

The 50% stretch of the fabric was a bigger issue than I expected. I removed 1/2″ ease from the front and stitched the back at 1/4″ instead of the 1cm SA’s planned. I thought I had already made this change to the tissue.  These days, it is typical for me to add 1/2″ ease to the back and remove the same amount from the front. Like my entire back side is 1 size bigger than my front or like I buy size 14 but my back is a 16 and my front is a 12, KWIM?   Not only did this fabric have 50% horizontal stretch, it has 25% vertical. I trimmed 3/4″ from the waistband and would have trimmed more except that the elastic interfered. Speaking of elastic, the 1″ initially removed was not enough. I removed an additional inch from both front and back to make the elastic a total of 4″ shorter than the previous elastic; AND I could have removed more. I scooped the back crotch three times.  The first time, my pattern alterations had created an odd, uneven crotch. I needed to scoop just to have a nice curve.  Later I scooped 1/4″ each time which greatly reduced the back-of-leg wrinkles but also shortened the leg length. I could scooped even more except for the pant length thing.  I’m seriously thinking I need to shorten that back leg.

I love to see the fitting progression and thought I’d share a few with you.

As we look into the pic, the unfitted pant is on the left, final version on the right. I removed 1/2″ ease from the front because the side seam evenly divided me 1/3 back to 2/3 front; and there were masses of diagonals in back.  Once I removed the ease  as shown in pic 3  (3rd from left, 2rd from right) I’m sure everyone will say “more tummy room”.  All those wrinkles are gone though by the last pic. Why? Because I know from experience the front diagonal lines that point to the side and were repeated on the back, mean that I’ve gotten my side seam too long.  I chopped 3/4″ off the top of each side seam. Suddenly, last pic on the right,  no tummy wrinkles.

Scoop, scoop, scoop:

Despite removing a hundred wrinkles, I am disappointed in the sheer number that remain. I think the Near Perfect Eleanor used a firmer fabric. The combination of softer RPL and 50/25 stretch did not help this version at all. I just did reach the point were it was counterproductive to continue scooping.  But I think  these are wearable. Certainly better than 99.9% of the RTW  I’ve tried on.

I was very concerned about the grain line adapted because of the alteration .  I carefully made notches and matched them because I know if the notches don’t match the pant absolutely will twist.

I think it was a valid concern.  I clearly see a drape towards the side seam of the leg, above the hem. Although it has lessened by the final pair (far pair on the right as we look at the pic).  The backs have a very similar drape.  Previous Eleanors clearly break at the front of the shoe

.. and their corresponding backs just hang to the floor.   I deliberately leave my pants a bit long.  At my house, all the clothing goes into the washer and dryer for cleaning.  Even  fabrics designed for this kind of maintenance will shrink over time–sometimes rapidly!

When I’m looking at the current Eleanors, I have to ask, was the grain line drawn incorrectly or is this just the result of softer fabric with 4 way stretch?

Unlike the Xmas Dress, I’m not in a place of not knowing what to do.  The pants are wearable but Im not sure the knee spread alteration was effective. The Bank Line pics look good, the fitting close ups show the drape below the knee.  I’m copying my Eleanor again because I want to record the fitting changes needed for a 50% stretch fabric. My copy will add 1/2″ ease to the back and remove the same from the front.  I will shorten the crotch length 1/2″ both back and front.  Scoop the back crotch 1/2″ and make the entire crotch curve smooth. I’ve not decided exactly how to shorten the back leg.  Will it be enough to shorten at the inseam or do I need to tuck then entire leg and then ease it to the front leg  Whichever I choose, I’ll mark this new pattern 50% stretch and carefully put it away.  The next time I work on pant fitting, I plan to use J Sterns Jeans pattern and fitting procedure.  As for the Eleanors, they are good enough most times and perfect from time to time.  When I just want to sew pants, I can choose from Eleanor, TJ906 or PP113.

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