I used my last modified copy of Pamela’s Pattern #113. The one where I changed the inseam to be straight. Also, I tried slimming the hem.  Previously, I’ve not been able to slim the leg by much. Somehow slimming the leg causes the X-wrinkles in back. Since these wrinkles are mostly between butt and knee, I made darts in the leg between knee and ankle.  Well, 2″ below the knee to the ankle.  I removed a lot of flare turning this 20″ hem into a 17″.  I used the Euro Waistband with a zip front just to be doing something different. But I think fabric once again played the biggest role.  Suddenly my 1/2″ side seams reduced the ease.

and the Xwrinkles started showing:

I did let out the side seams as far as possible which removed the VPL. However the Xwrinkles didn't go away.  This fabric was an issue for another reason: it exploded. Well that's what I thought when I couldn't match the side and inseams. Once cut those bias edges grew in size.  I spent time at the ironing board shrinking down to the cut length. I thought about slapping the pattern back on top and recutting, but the pattern wouldn't fit. 

.I love these pants because for the first time, I was able to embroider the legs

I’ve often wanted to add embroidery at the hem. But you must be sure the pants will fit because the side seam is sewn first. Fortunately, I was able to open the side seam above the embroidery to gain the additional ease I needed. The embroidery isn’t really clear in the picture, so I exported a copy from Embird:



I started with the sample from Bella’s Bridal Collection at Secretsof.com.  It’s all a matter of splitting, mirroring and rotating to create the design wanted.