For the Summer Collection TJ906

Minor change to the pattern.  I’ve noticed a lot of excess ease over the back thigh.  Just to check, I pinched out a 1/8″ wide dart starting at the back inseam, crossing and terminating at the side seam.

My fabric is a denim purchased in the last few years either from Fabricmartfabrics.com or FashionFabricsClub.com It was prewashed with a can of coke because I can tell coke softens cotton fabrics. I’ve been calling the color ginger because it reminds me of the plant root. However, I think it was named golden wheat or something like that.  It’s a very neutral color in my closet.  In fact I was planning to top stitching with the same blue as the trousers  in my  Late Summer Early Autumn Collection. At the last-minute I decided to top stitch with matching thread because that keeps the pant neutral and usable with every color I wear.

Sometimes I think fabric is everything. In this case, these pants were too large at the try-on.  I increased the side seams but I think the back and side views still look a little loose, for jeans that is.  The front crotch suddenly looks too short. Well I threw these on and took quick pics.  I noticed that they seemed a little high at the waist, but made no attempt to adjust. I’m guessing, I tightened the belt one notch to many, which pulled the pants up too far in the front. Fortunately, they look much better when worn with the YED top:

and the whole collection is beginning to come together:



I used my last modified copy of Pamela’s Pattern #113. The one where I changed the inseam to be straight. Also, I tried slimming the hem.  Previously, I’ve not been able to slim the leg by much. Somehow slimming the leg causes the X-wrinkles in back. Since these wrinkles are mostly between butt and knee, I made darts in the leg between knee and ankle.  Well, 2″ below the knee to the ankle.  I removed a lot of flare turning this 20″ hem into a 17″.  I used the Euro Waistband with a zip front just to be doing something different. But I think fabric once again played the biggest role.  Suddenly my 1/2″ side seams reduced the ease.

and the Xwrinkles started showing:

I did let out the side seams as far as possible which removed the VPL. However the Xwrinkles didn't go away.  This fabric was an issue for another reason: it exploded. Well that's what I thought when I couldn't match the side and inseams. Once cut those bias edges grew in size.  I spent time at the ironing board shrinking down to the cut length. I thought about slapping the pattern back on top and recutting, but the pattern wouldn't fit. 

.I love these pants because for the first time, I was able to embroider the legs

I’ve often wanted to add embroidery at the hem. But you must be sure the pants will fit because the side seam is sewn first. Fortunately, I was able to open the side seam above the embroidery to gain the additional ease I needed. The embroidery isn’t really clear in the picture, so I exported a copy from Embird:



I started with the sample from Bella’s Bridal Collection at Secretsof.com.  It’s all a matter of splitting, mirroring and rotating to create the design wanted.