Let’s talk fabric first. I’m having real problems find a muslin fabric in my stash. I want something that is light in color because darks can hide a lot figure and fit issues. I’ve made peace with my figure issues. I want to see the fit issues so I can persuade my fabrics to flatter my figure as is. (My Spanx? Worn only when my back hurts during cold weather.) I’m really “digging into the bottom of the barrel” and using some fabrics I don’t think are ideal for pants. Loes recommends:
“Drapey fabric, microfiber, rayon, silk, light weight wool, and light weight linen blend.“
In my stash I found a rayon “suiting” that definitely is drapey but I questioned it’s use for pants. Heck I question that it is suiting. I’ve heard people say they were done with Fabricmart and this fabric is one of the reasons that occurs. IMO it might make a nice blouse or big ol’ Lagenlook pants like I wore 20 years ago. But a jacket or vest? Not without layers and layers of stabilizers , underlinings and linings. To me this is not suiting, therefore, it was perfect for the next muslin. I won’t feel any regret if Ascona V3 is a flop and this fabric promptly deposited in the trash.
I traced a new copy of 1008-Ascona in the recommended size. I considered carefully. The only thing I know for certain, is that I need to add 1.25″ to the top at the waist if I want the cut-on facing/waistband. The pattern is drafted to sit about an inch below the natural waistline. Unfortunately, I have this overwhelming compulsion to jerk my pants upward until they sit at the natural waistline. I’m not sure why it’s such a compulsion. I don’t pull up my RTW DG2 jeans or self-sewn TJ906 jeans. Maybe it’s the jeans fit that makes me comfortable with the below waistline WB. Anyway, I’ve decided not to fight this battle right now. I’d much rather work towards making the backside look and feel great. So I added the 1.25″ immediately.
I also scooped 1/2″ from the front crotch. Not in the curve but above the curve. Essentially I moved the upright towards the side seam 1/2″. In my previous Ascona Versions, every pic had an oddly placed camel toe until I scooped out the front curve. I’m not fighting that battle again either.
Then I looked at the back. I worked with backs from the Straight Inseam PP113 and TJ906 the source of the straight inseam and crotch. Couldn’t make it work. I used all 6 of my colored felt tip pens trying different ideas. When I ran out of colors, I switched to dashed lines. I even tried the knee slide again but placed about 2″ below the crotch. I reached the point of not being able to make out the individual lines. So of course, I traced another copy of the back leg. I also took a bathroom break and tried some liquid refreshment. Afterwards, I thought I’m working too hard. I’m trying to change the crotch and the inseam at the same time. I’m doing too much at the same time. So I opted to copy only the crotch from TJ906. Even working with only the crotch, I really couldn’t line it up. I spied my flexible ruler and wondered if it would help. Using the flexible ruler I measured the TJ906 curve plus yoke plus waistband. Added in 1.25″ for the Ascona faced WB arriving at 18.5″. I persuaded the flexible ruler to line up along the CB seam, curve and then stop at the crotch point. The flexible ruler dipped over an inch below the curve of the Ascona. Which gave me a “Huh?” moment. I had scooped the Ascona rear crotch. I nearly always need a little scooping and the 1/4″ used with the earlier Ascona Versions was enough to make the crotch feel and look good. But had no effect upon the back X wrinkles. Would it make a difference now?
I wanted to add 1″ ease to the back pattern piece. Why? I’m routinely adding 1″ to the back. Added the same 1″ to the back of all the blouses I’ve fit recently. On both PP113 and the MSS I removed 1″ from the front and added it to the back. It’s a net 0 change but makes both the front and back of those pants look better. No matter what Peggy says, it is apparent my hip circumference is not evenly divided between back and front. So I wanted to add 1″ ease to the back torso but not to the legs. I want those 16.5″ legs. That’s the whole purpose of my purchasing and working with this pattern. For 18″ legs, I can use Tj906 or MSS. So I hung the pattern pieces on the wall and took the time to think about it. Eventually, I remembered the PBA (Protruding Butt Alteration). It was the PBA which helped me create the 20″ hems on PP113. Let’s shorten this story. I added a 3/4″ PBA and the flexible-ruler curve to the Ascona’s back.
When I cut fabric, I added 1/4″ at the side seams, both front and back. Loes and I both love the 3/8″ SA however I like to be able to tweak the fit according to the fabric. So while I will make my other SA’s 3/8″, I want 5/8″ on the side seams.
After cutting fabric, I stitched the pants together using the 5/8″ side seams. Ripped that out and used 3/8″. Good thing I added that 1/4″ because my final is at 1/4″ and I could use just a bit more room. Good news is the back looks pretty good:
It took 3 pics to catch the back looking this good (?). It’s all about the fabric. I pull the waistband out let it snap into place and take a pic. Nope hung up on the right. Smooth the back and WB; take another pic. Nope hanging up a different way. At least this view shows one good and one nearly-perfect back leg. IMO the back would look better if I had added the darts. I didn’t because I’m more concerned about how the leg looks.
Side view is also not bad. I am concerned at what appears to be rouching along the back side seam. In all previous fittings, (6 total. I’m not detailing them) it was the front which rouched along the side seam. I offset the front 1/2″ and the back rouches? Sometimes you can’t win.
The front looks a bit weird. It feels bad. The front is binding along my things and the crotch is rubbing my inner thigh. Both issues were relived by turning down the front WB but then the pant looks bad front, side and back. Just to verify, I ripped out the front WB (I used WST on side seams, hems and WB) and pulled it down 2.5″ allowing the turned down portion to smoothly return to a 1.25″ depth at the back. This feels fairly good, but looks like crap:
I realize that by folding down in the front, I’m also exerting some stress on the back crotch. The back then starts displaying more pull lines. Even though the fabric turned smoothly, I have drapes beneath the front waistband and VPL everywhere. Apparently, this is something I’m going to have to work at in the tissue stage. I considered finishing because the Bank Line View isn’t bad at all:
But I’m annoyed at how this supposed “suiting” can move about and look bad between one pic and the next. One thought that occurred to me over and over, is that it might be just fine if I’d used a fabric with 10-15% stretch. For me, that was the clincher with the Madagascar Tank. Using a knit I mean. Using a knit turned a bad-for-me pattern into a TNT. It’s all about the fabric.
Right now, Ascona V3 is on a hanger and I’m off thinking about V4.