For the next fabric I chose another polyester which illustrates the great difference in quality polys can have. While the previous felt nasty and snagged badly, this has the quality of a high-end suiting. It has weight but is not winter heavy. It has drape without cling. Right and wrong sides are very similar but can be differentiated. Just to extra sure, I again made a mark on the wrong side. I stitched the darts this time, because this fabric deserves the nicer fit the back dart will provide. I serged, yes I did, I serged side seams, inseams and crotch. I never serge side seams until the garment’s first fitting. But I serged. I also didn’t use water-soluble thread. I stitched the elastic and waistband into place. Pressed carefully after a spritz of starch and took photos. The wonderful things about this is the pant was ready to be worn in about an hour (not counting pattern alterations.) The results:
let’s say, less than desired. The first thing that popped into my mind is “I’m deformed”. Who has a camel toe 4″ below their belly button? Then I realized the back is unable to come up over my behind and settle at the waist where it should be. That’s further shown by the side view, where the waistline is tilted upward and the pant buckles at the back knee. Again on the front you see Jodhpur styling which is the back pushing forward because it can’t go lower or higher but it can come to the side. Supposedly, this pant is drafted with a scooped back crotch. Obviously not enough for me. I return to the SM, scoop the crotch 3/8″ and also stitch the side seams 1/8″ deeper before taking the next picture:
So now, the waistline sits level and the Jodhpur no longer appears. But the X wrinkles in back are horrendous and the camel toe only slightly lower on my body (still not placed anatomically correct). Also a mere 1/8 increase in side seams has revealed my underwear (see VPL in side view).
Back to the SM. Let out the side seam. Scoop the front crotch because the Fashion Incubator says that camel toe develops because we try to add width in the crotch space instead of at the side seam where it is needed. More pictures (it takes 3 views and 3- 6 photos to make a composite.)
If all I was able to look at was the front and side, I’d be out the door thinking I was stylin’. However the back is clearly filled with X wrinkles all emanating from my knees. That 3/8″ knee wedge was supposed to at least alleviate this issue, not make it worse. Looking closely I also see that the front is still rouching along the side seam. I shortened the pant at the top 1/2″. Apparently that’s not enough. I can ignore the side seam for now, even the front twisting at the ankle but that back?
A big issue is that there are only so many thing you can do once the fabric is cut. You can increase or decrease seam allowances. They’ve been adjusted as much as possible without negatively affecting the pant. You can scoop the crotch. Done. Front and back D-O-N-E. This is the voice of experience speaking. If you scoop too much the crotch length becomes too long. Then you have to remove the waistband and set it lower on the pant which usually also involves adjusting the darts and side seams to fit the new position on your body. This crotch feels wonderfully comfortable as well as looking nice. I’m not scooping any further. My issue at the moment is not the crotch but the X wrinkles.
The other things I know that might fix the X wrinkles, can be pinned now but not made now.
On the left, I pinned out a 3/4″ deep wedge under the bum as suggested by my commenter. The wedge does have a good effect but didn’t completely remove the wrinkles. J Sterns recommends pinning that wedge at an angle up and over the bum (instead of under the bum). She (Sterns) says that the horizontal tuck won’t work when it is trasferred to the tissue. It’s still not enough to completely remove the X wrinkles. Both leave questions in my mind, now that I’ve shortened the back side seam, what do I do? If I do nothing, my front side seam is going to be 1.5″ longer than the back. The front is already too long. That’s why I have those diagonal lines between waist and side seam above the hip crease. Also, I can’t take out any more ease across my bum. Just increase the side seams 1/8″ caused VPL. If I make J Sterns alteration, how do I offset the loss of ease across my butt.
I’d also like to know what the net result is. Are we changing the grain in relation to the leg? Are we changing the way the leg joins the torso? What’s happening here? I want to know why because if I understand why, I can do it again. I mean I can look at a blouse pattern and say I need an NSA (narrow shoulder adjustment). Because I know my shoulder is shorter. I can measure my shoulder, measure the pattern and determine how much I’m shorter than the pattern. Same think with the back waist length adjustment. I can measure my back and compare it to the tissue. I can determine how much my back is shorter than the pattern.
While the tucks above could help, I’ve had the horrible experience of pinning now, transferring to the tissue; making a new pair and still having the X wrinkles. I need to give it a rest. Just contemplate the issue for a few days. This pair? Well I made shorts:
Cut off 21 inches and all the leg issues just disappear.
Thanks for following along. I’m always open to suggestions. Someday, I’ll find the “why” answer. That’s the answer that will make it possible for me to use any pant pattern instead of the few patterns that by an accident in drafting avoided the issue.