sdBev's Pants!

Ascona2: Fit

Posted on: July 11, 2015

For the next fabric I chose another polyester which illustrates the great difference in quality polys can have. While the previous felt nasty and snagged badly, this has the quality of a high-end suiting. It has weight but is not winter heavy. It has drape without cling.  Right and wrong sides are very similar but can be differentiated. Just to extra sure, I again made a mark on the wrong side. I stitched the darts this time, because this fabric deserves the nicer fit the back dart will provide.  I serged, yes I did, I serged side seams, inseams and crotch.  I never serge side seams until the garment’s first fitting. But I serged.  I also didn’t use water-soluble thread. I stitched the elastic and waistband into place. Pressed carefully after a spritz of starch and took photos. The wonderful things about this is the pant was ready to be worn in about an hour (not counting pattern alterations.) The results:

let’s say, less than desired. The first thing that popped into my mind is “I’m deformed”. Who has a camel toe 4″ below their belly button?  Then I realized the back is unable to come up over my behind and settle at the waist where it should be.  That’s further shown by the side view, where the waistline is tilted upward and the pant buckles at the back knee. Again on the front  you see Jodhpur styling which is the back pushing forward because it can’t go lower or higher but it can come to the side.   Supposedly, this pant is drafted with a scooped back crotch.  Obviously not enough for me.  I return to the SM, scoop the crotch 3/8″ and also stitch the side seams 1/8″ deeper before taking the next picture:

So now, the waistline sits level and the Jodhpur no longer appears. But the X wrinkles in back are horrendous and the camel toe only slightly lower on my body (still not placed anatomically correct).  Also a mere 1/8 increase in side seams has revealed my underwear (see VPL in side view).

Back to the SM.   Let out the side seam.  Scoop the front crotch because the Fashion Incubator says that camel toe develops because we try to add width in the crotch space instead of at the side seam where it is needed. More pictures (it takes 3 views and 3- 6 photos to make a composite.)

If all I was able to look at was the front and side, I’d be out the door thinking I was stylin’.  However the back is clearly filled with X wrinkles all emanating from my knees. That 3/8″ knee wedge was supposed to at least alleviate this issue, not make it worse.  Looking closely I also see that the front is still rouching along the side seam.  I shortened the pant at the top 1/2″. Apparently that’s not enough. I can ignore the side seam for now, even the front twisting at the ankle but that back?

A big issue is that there are only so many thing you can do once the fabric is cut.  You can increase or decrease seam allowances. They’ve been adjusted as much as possible without negatively affecting the pant. You can scoop the crotch. Done. Front and back D-O-N-E. This is the voice of experience speaking. If you scoop too much the crotch length becomes too long. Then you have to remove the waistband and set it lower on the pant which usually also involves adjusting the darts and side seams to fit the new position on your body.  This crotch feels wonderfully comfortable as well as looking nice. I’m not scooping any further. My issue at the moment is not the crotch but  the X wrinkles.

The other things I know that might fix the X wrinkles, can be pinned now but not made now.

On the left, I pinned out a 3/4″ deep wedge under the bum as suggested by my commenter. The wedge does have a good effect but didn’t completely remove the wrinkles.  J Sterns recommends pinning that wedge at an angle up and over the bum (instead of under the bum). She (Sterns) says that the horizontal tuck won’t work when it is trasferred to the tissue.  It’s still not enough to completely remove the X wrinkles. Both leave questions in my mind, now that I’ve shortened the back side seam, what do I do?  If I do nothing, my front side seam is going to be 1.5″ longer than the back.  The front is already too long. That’s why I have those diagonal lines between waist and side seam above the hip crease.  Also, I can’t take out any more ease across my bum. Just increase the side seams 1/8″ caused VPL.  If I make J Sterns alteration, how do I offset the loss of ease across my butt.

I’d also like to know what the net result is.  Are we changing the grain in relation to the leg? Are we changing the way the leg joins the torso? What’s happening here?  I want to know why because if I understand why, I can do it again.  I mean I can look at a blouse pattern and say I need an NSA (narrow shoulder adjustment).  Because I know my shoulder is shorter. I can measure my shoulder, measure the pattern and determine how much I’m shorter than the pattern.  Same think with the back waist length adjustment. I can measure my back and compare it to the tissue.  I can determine how much my back is shorter than the pattern.

While the tucks above could help, I’ve had the horrible experience of pinning now, transferring to the tissue; making a new pair and still having the X wrinkles.  I need to give it a rest. Just contemplate the issue for a few days. This pair?  Well I made shorts:

Cut off 21 inches and all the leg issues just disappear.

 

Thanks for following along. I’m always open to suggestions. Someday, I’ll find the “why” answer. That’s the answer that will make it possible for me to use any pant pattern instead of the few patterns that by an  accident in drafting avoided the issue.                                                                

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9 Responses to "Ascona2: Fit"

Why don’t you try using a different size for the back?

Back again – at the computer and not the tablet so I can see better what’s going on. My ascona’s don’t have as much gathering as yours do – wonder if you’re using the right size. I vaguely remember you said you went up a size? Also, you may well need a different size for front or back. I like the ascona’s but I did have some problems fitting them. I ‘think’ I added a bit to the top of the front? Can’t remember – too lazy to walk up the stairs? If you look back thru the LH thread on SG you’ll find some good information there.

I’m using the largest size. I added a half inch to the back. I think I should avoid any pattern that promises to sit inches below the waist. I have this unreasonable compulsion to pull them up to the waist creating many if not most of my issues. I’ve added an inch to the top front and back so I wont pull the pants up but wonder if that is still part of my issue. Good idea to go back and read the LH thread. I’ll do that next. Ive been watching Peggy Sagers pants fitting videos hoping to find a solution. I keep thinking I must not understand something critical about how fabric wraps around the body to make pants. I should be able to fix this and keep the leg.

I watched the vid by j sterns on correcting wrinkles on the back leg. She took the diagonal dart but then added the amount of the dart to the waist at the side seam. There also was a blog post about adding additional length to the inseam above the knee but also taking the same amount off the side seam, pivot point I think was the grain line. Hope you find the solution soon. Good luck

OK I didnt see that in her Craftsy class. I like Craftsy except for times like this when I want to review something specific without watching all seven hours of video. I felt like I needed to pinch out deeper and at more of an angle but stuck for how to offset because I positively need that ease across my behind and back leg length. Thanks for adding more detail.

Looking good. Try basting the tuck (and then another if the first doesn’t work) and see how you like them before you cut new. Easy to tear out basting. I think you’re doing a great (and patient) job. This is hard work. Stick with it. Looks like you’ve got knock knees (me too). This tuck at the crotch is good. You can also try taking several tucks: 1 at hip level; one at crotch; one at knee. This way you spread the solution of shortening the outseam and its not all in one place. Once you’ve decided how much to remove in length from side seam, you’ll need to restraitghten the grain line.

Thanks. Still working on this and do appreciate the comments.

Here is the links both to the vid and the blog post regarding lengthening the inseam. The vid is on Vimeo and not from her craftsy class which I haven’t purchased.

http://jsterndesigns.cinematicweddingstory.com/?p=2378

Thanks. Really good information I will try. Great links.

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