I cut 4 pairs of shorts at once. I knew that I wanted more shorts for summer. More importantly, I’m cleaning out the Under 2’s — those remnants of fabrics that are too big to throw away but not large enough all projects. The next pair I cut was from a white with brown stripe, stretch twill. Stretch factor is about 15%.
The cuton waist band was already pinned to the my shorts version of PP113. To make this pair different, I opted for inseam pockets, a fly front and Euro waistband. (WB is cut on and darts are stitched through the WB.)
I serge finished inseams and, crotch and the WB edge. Added the the inseam pocket at the same time as serge finishing the side seam. Then I stitched darts, zipper and serged the inseams. I stitched the crotch seams and pressed them open but used water soluble thread to stitch the side seams and tack the waistband into place.
I realized that the previous fabric with it’s 100% stretch would be “roomy’ and increased the seam allowances. I thought this fabric with 15% stretch would act very much like a woven. This stretch amount is intended to provide movement ease not style or minimal ease. I was surprised that the pant was obviously tight across my bum (and thankful for my 5/8″ side seams.) At the same time, it was not tight enough at the waist. I let the side seams out 1/8″ and made the darts 1/8″ deeper. With 4 darts, that took the waist in sufficiently. The first try-on made me think the shorts were just a bit longer than my preferred length. I finished the hem at 2″ instead of my usual 1.25”.
All in all this was reasonably quick to sew. In fact, this is what I expect of a TNT. I expect that the lengths will be correct and that ease may need to be adjusted for the nuances of the individual fabric. My ideal is stitching zipper and darts permanently. Basting the rest together. One try-on from which minor adjustments can be made and then permanent finishes for an excellent garment. Today’s shorts fit that bill.