Dress Blue Slacks

Apologies for hanger shots. My back just would not cooperate.

I’m again using PP113 because I made another tissue change.  I added 1/4″ ease/circumference to the back only.  Summary of tissue changes is now:

  1. Less 4″ leg length
  2. Crotch depth
    1. Back: 1/4″ evenly tucked  (total 1/2″ removed from back crotch depth)
    2. Front:  3/8″  Wedge at the center front decreasing to  1/4″ at the side seam
  3. Ease
    1. Front: Vertical 5/8″ tuck  (removes 1.25″ ease per leg total 2.5″ from the front)
    2. Back Slash and spread 1.50″ (adds 1.50″ ease per leg total 3.00″ added to the back)
    3. Net ease change = +.5″

I wanted to do something different. Anything. I chose to use a waistband similar to Loes Hinse Euro. It is a simple pattern adjustment already half done with the shorts in the previous post.  A straight waistband is drafted for the front and back pattern pieces. It is 3.5″ wide (my preference and includes 3/8 SA on each length-wise edge) plus 1/4″ for anticipated top stitching along the folded length-wise edge. The waistband pieces are pinned to the top of the front and back leg at the waist and overlapping the seam allowance of the pant and the waistband. This is just like the elastic waistband of the shorts. The first difference is that the darts are extended up through the waistband. They aren’t tapered as the rest of the dart. Starting at where the dart legs end at the waist, the legs are extended equal distance from each other all the way across the pinned on waistband.  Hmm a picture would be handy, but I didn’t make one.  Next change is preparing the tissue for a zipper insertion. Since I prefer the front zipper, I unfolded the front extension (as originally drafted). When stitching, the darts are  stitched from point through the cut-on waistband.

Euro Waistband

I used the MSS pocket again. I want pockets especially when I’m out and about in a more business like setting.  It’s surprising at how often, even with a purse somewhat handy, that a pocket is the most elegant solution to tucking something away while still having it handy.  I would tend to avoid the MSS pocket on more dressy garments. I used it here because I thought the fabric design would conceal the pockets’ top stitching.

I’ve used my fabric before. It’s a Walmart purchase and I believe a cotton/nylon blend. It is 66″ wide which makes me think it wasn’t intended for garment construction. But it works very well for summer pants.  It is light weight but firm. It tends to resist and then shed wrinkles. However, like all cotton garments, it can be a hot mess especially if I dozed off or wore them for 18 hours straight. It is a stripe of navy blue, white and a royal blue. I prefer stripes as a casual pant, or as an alternative dress pant. It will be my primary dress pant because I simply don’t have another similar fabric. I have pant fabric suitable for casual pants, jeans, transition and winter wear. Light weight  fabrics that work well for summer pants and are also navy blue are in short supply.  Not only does the pocket lie flat, flat, flat (one of the reasons I love the MSS pocket), the top stitching is nearly invisible due to the fabric’s stripes. The Euro Waistband is very flat. Between the two, this loose pant is actually slimming.

The two designs choices MSS pocket and Euro waistband added considerably to the sewing time. Nearing the end I realized why I don’t use this waistband treatment often.  For me it requires an inner button tab. The tab conceals the little gap that occurs when the zipper is nearly at the top.  I happened to set my zipper about 1/4″ down from the very top edge which can result in a large gap.  The tab pulls the top together and makes the closure a little more secure.



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