906

Golden Olive 906

It’s easier to see how badly this went by looking at a much enlightened picture:

My intent was to make the nearly the same pant as the last and work on trimming ease from the back of the leg.  I made one change between this version and that was trimming the pattern along the seam between back yoke and back leg to 1/4″.  This meant I could serge that seam and be done.  Possibly I was way too confident because I stitched the entire garment together although I continued to use 5/8 SA everywhere except the now 1/4″ yoke to pant leg and 3/8 SA along both sides of the waistband and the crotch.  The sewing difference between this version and the last was only that the back yoke was serged to the leg with a 1/4″ SA. I just don’t believe that small change created the butt and camel toe issues above.   The fabric is again 100% cotton (no stretch) corduroy. It may be marginally heavier than the previous pair. Something that I feel as touching the fabric but have no way of calculating. Visually the fabrics are the same. So maybe the “feel different” is all in my head.

I had seen hints of the camel toe issue in earlier versions. It wasn’t bad and I was pretty sure that the issue was the angular shape of the front crotch. It is barely curved whereas I know from long experience I need kind of a hook.  I made an attempt to fix the crotch issues (both back and front) by scooping and forming the crotch shape as it should be to fit me.  Basically that means scooping down a quarter of an inch forming almost a U down at the bottom. Except that my U is higher in the front than in the back. (FFRP devotes one short paragraph a mere sentence to this condition and calls it  an anomaly.)  That aside, my “fix” fixed it worse than before.  Possibly this is a fabric issue. maybe I didn’t press well enough or there were minor errors in the cutting or or or

Not sure exactly what was wrong or how to fix it; and total ticked off that this should happen after several pretty successful versions of 906, I finished the dang thing and put it in the donate box.

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