906

Golden Olive 906

It’s easier to see how badly this went by looking at a much enlightened picture:

My intent was to make the nearly the same pant as the last and work on trimming ease from the back of the leg.  I made one change between this version and that was trimming the pattern along the seam between back yoke and back leg to 1/4″.  This meant I could serge that seam and be done.  Possibly I was way too confident because I stitched the entire garment together although I continued to use 5/8 SA everywhere except the now 1/4″ yoke to pant leg and 3/8 SA along both sides of the waistband and the crotch.  The sewing difference between this version and the last was only that the back yoke was serged to the leg with a 1/4″ SA. I just don’t believe that small change created the butt and camel toe issues above.   The fabric is again 100% cotton (no stretch) corduroy. It may be marginally heavier than the previous pair. Something that I feel as touching the fabric but have no way of calculating. Visually the fabrics are the same. So maybe the “feel different” is all in my head.

I had seen hints of the camel toe issue in earlier versions. It wasn’t bad and I was pretty sure that the issue was the angular shape of the front crotch. It is barely curved whereas I know from long experience I need kind of a hook.  I made an attempt to fix the crotch issues (both back and front) by scooping and forming the crotch shape as it should be to fit me.  Basically that means scooping down a quarter of an inch forming almost a U down at the bottom. Except that my U is higher in the front than in the back. (FFRP devotes one short paragraph a mere sentence to this condition and calls it  an anomaly.)  That aside, my “fix” fixed it worse than before.  Possibly this is a fabric issue. maybe I didn’t press well enough or there were minor errors in the cutting or or or

Not sure exactly what was wrong or how to fix it; and total ticked off that this should happen after several pretty successful versions of 906, I finished the dang thing and put it in the donate box.

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906

Final

Fit, permanently stitched and modeled:

Pics lightened 100%

The final fit is about what I expect.  The pattern size which seems to fit waist and hips is too generous in the legs. My point with this pair was testing the accumulated changes.  The last change made on the pattern was removing 3/4″  from the side length, in the upper torso.  I used a wedge or dart to fold out 3/4″ along the seam.  This removes  nearly all the folds in front and rouching along the side seams without causing issues in other places.  I tried making this alteration to the previous pair of pants, but it is an alteration that needs to be made at the tissue stage. I have proof if you need to see it.

When I make this pattern again, I will be removing ease from the back leg.  I have some interesting references.  Corecouture folds out length below the bum and then adds it at the hem. Net change to the leg length is zero. What she is doing essentially creates narrower shaping just below the crotch. 3 Hours Past (read to the end of the post) both reshapes her crotch and changes the shape of the inseam.  Since my pattern has a seam in the center back of the leg, that is the first place I will be reshaping. I happen to like this crotch and don’t want to change it. In fact, I have often copied this crotch to other patterns.

In the end analysis, this pair of pants fits reasonably well. I never expect perfect pants although I have sewn a few.  A perfect pant results from the marriage of pattern and fabric and my particular fitting standards.  I’ve made more pattern and fabric mistakes than I care to think about; and my standards have become more stringent as I learn how to fit.  Sometimes I define fit by what is not there. Such as my lady parts should not be clearly identifiable. Hinted at. Known to exist. But not perfectly obvious.  This pair is good enough and to my surprise, many of my colors will work with its olive tones.

906, Uncategorized

My aging Body VS Pants

I’ve had an incredibly frustrating  couple of weeks.  Having easily finished the black Velvet-Like Corduroy  pants to the point of near perfection, I turned my attention to creating a pair from the same pattern in a dark brown.  I’ll take the time to point out I had also used the same pattern to create my pants for my Spring 6PAC.  Then this happened

Photo lightened 100%

Same pattern. Incredibly different results.Why?

I wondered about measurement changes. I had just slipped the tape measure around me in several places when I attempted drafting the week before last. A quick check revealed that my numbers hadn’t changed at all between then and now. I wondered if I had otherwise overly trimmed the pattern pieces .  To my relief, my copies were reasonably close to the original pattern sheets.  So then I checked the envelope to see if I had traced the correct size.  Size correct.  I searched my blog to see when I’d last fit this pattern and what changes I’ve been making along the way.  As near as I can tell  the real problem is my aging body and the differing amount of stretch between fabrics. This fabric had a mere 11% stretch vs the 50% of the yoga pants and 25 % of the corduroy pants.

I wasn’t sure of all the changes I’d made to this  version. I have been tweaking and playing with it for quite some time.  I opted to trace the same size, because according to my hip measurement, that was the right size.  I was a bit over-confident. I trimmed the inseams, crotch and waist seam allowances to 1/4″. Figuring with 5/8″ allowance in two other seams (side and center back leg), I would have enough ease to adapt to my figure.  I chose another fabric a 100% cotton i.e. no-stretch.  I wanted to create a base pattern that I could adapt to fabrics of varying stretch. I want to correctly establish correct length and style at the pattern stage and the adapt for stretch during fit.  And then this happened:

Oh and that was  the 2nd fitting after I had let out the seams as far as possible.

Back to the original pattern to trace  the next size up.  Slightly humbled, I didn’t trim a single seam allowance. I  did shorten the leg at the hem 3″. I’m short. The leg needs to be shortened. I chose a new fabric. I depleted the supply of non-stretch dark browns, which is what I wanted to add to my wardrobe, and decided to work with what was called a dark olive.  It’s not black. Even though it is named dark olive, it is lighter in value than the 2 previous fabrics.  It is a soft soft, 100% cotton, corduroy. If I remember correctly I purchased this from the fabric store in Mitchell. I remember loving the feel of the fabric but hesitating over the color.  Sure enough, this fabric has sat in my stash at least 3 years. It just doesn’t look good to me next to most of my other colors.  I reasoned now was the time. If this version of 906 didn’t work either, I wouldn’t have wasted a truly admired fabric.

I spent 9 fittings trying to get this to fit me.   Nine. 09. N_I_N_E

Photos Lightened 100%

Here’s the problem. #1, the fabric is too soft. It just collapses. It shows VPL even when I can pinch an inch of fabric directly over that area. It  wants to stick and cling despite multiple applications static spray.  It doesn’t stretch which I wanted.  But fabric isn’t the only problem. The other problem is that some alterations must be made at the tissue level. Trying to correct later only creates other issues. Same applies to trying to make too many changes or really big changes. They accumulate and cause other issues. I finished this pair by ripping out most of the fitting changes (the other two were binned). From this version I took   two style and 1 fitting change.

  1. Folded out 3/4″ crotch depth on all 3 leg pieces.
    1. I really want the wider waistband  created by using a 3/8″ SA along both edges of the waistband. But then I have to compensate for the additional crotch length.
  2. Trimmed leg width 1/4″ by the inseam and 1/2″ by the side seam between hem and 2″ below knee.
    1. I like a baby bell but not the 23″ hem circumference included in this pattern
    2.  Because of my knee shape taking out more ease on the inseam size causes the leg to pull at the knee.
    3. Taking out more ease around the knee also causes drag lines emanating from the knee.
  3. Fitting change:  added 3/8 ease to the CB seam of the leg.
    1. Just in case the VPL was not solely due to the softness of the fabric.

I decided to choose another fabric from the olive/khaki stack. I’ve accumulated these fabrics because they look differently in the store or on-line than at home  in the natural light.  I’ve now officially designated olive/khaki as “muslin” and am proceeding to whittle their numbers down.  The next fabric was called “suiting”. It too is a 100% cotton.  If I was making a suit, I would completely interface this fabric. It is beefy but lacks body. It wouldn’t make a good suit without help from interfacing. 3rd fitting and nearly done:

Yeah you can’t see much until the pictures are lightened 100%

I haven’t secured the pockets. I like to place the pockets when the jean is flat. So the back does look a little off.  I added an even 3/8″ to the CB leg.  Then decided that I needed to add at least half of that to the back yoke so that I could ease instead of gather the leg and yoke. The yoke is then eased to the back of the waist band. In actuality, I need the ease just over the curve of my bottom.   When I make permanent stitching, I’ll take the ease out of the yoke and curve the top of the CB leg to eliminate the 3/8.  Kind of like changing a C cup for the previous B or an FBA directly over the rear.  What I”m most concerned about now, is that the back of the leg of this pattern has always fit beautifully. It’s what I love about the pattern. I feel like the leg has gotten too big. Which if I compare with the measurement chart is correct. According to the measurement chart I need to use two sizes smaller.  But you saw how that fit second picture from the top).  I’m not retracing. I want to get the pattern to fit, not to figure out fit theory. Besides I’m happy with the side view. I will scoop the front crotch just a bit. It looks like the beginning of camel toe. I know from experience that the front crotch has to be a little more curved than drafted.  A little spay starch and a good pressing and this pair is wearable.

So to the next version (there must be a next version because I”m not entirely satisfied with this one)

  1. (Style Change) Folded out 3/4″ crotch depth on all 3 leg pieces
  2. (Style Change) Trimmed leg width 1/4″ by the inseam and 1/2″ by the side seam between hem and 2″ below knee.
  3. (Fitting change):  added 3/8 ease to the CB seam of the leg (curved above and below the bump).
  4. (Fitting change): 3/4″  wedge removed at side seam extending from side back belt loop to side front belt loop

Stay tuned, another version is coming up soon.

906

906 Velvet Like Corduroy

After working diligently on T-shirt fit issues, I truly needed a breather.  At the same time I keep wanting to wear blouses and tops are best paired with  black or brown pants. So I decided on  a quick time out.  I chose TJ906,  as  fit with the tent fabric and a lovely winter fabric corduroy. Except this corduroy is luxurious.  The wales are so fine that once trimmed it appears to be velvet until you get up close — really close. The fabric is soft and has 25% horizontal stretch. Absolutely no vertical stretch, not even a twinge.  I did nothing unusual either cutting or stitching. Even my basting was limited to attaching the facing and waist band.  I used my cover stitch to create the belt loops, but my sewing machine for the blind stitch hem. Total circumference at the hem is 20″.

The fit is difficult to see. I have lightened the pic below 100%.;

These pants feel perfect and DH says they look beautiful.  I think I might should scoop the crotch a little or perhaps make sure that my multiple uses have not trimmed the crotch length.  Also I should admit that while the tape measure still gives me the same reading, I feel like my tummy is bigger.  (When you have to bend over further to read the bathroom scale, either  your tummy has grown or your eye sight has gotten worse. I just got new glasses).

During sewing I a noticed that I had to ease the waistband and yoke quite a bit. I’m not sure what is going on there and not sure I’m going to knock myself out fixing it. I do know that’s not new. But I’ve become so engrossed it fit that it jumps out at me.

Another interesting drag line is the one  from inner knee to the outside of the foot.  It is not always apparent, but I do see that drag line frequently in previous versions.  I think the pant is too long which I do deliberately    I repeatedly find that I’m discarding jeans and other pants because they become too short for my tastes. I like to start with my pants just above the floor about 1/2″.  I never peg my hems, but maybe I should.

That’s it for today. I consider this another successful pair.