Since I called the first no-yoke version of Tj906 done, I’ve made 5 more fittings. Each time I change something just slightly. I realized I had not addressed the front bubbles.
Sometimes called frowns, on me they are the result of the front side seam being too long. I opened the waistband and lifted the side seam 1/2″. That reduced both front and back side seam by 1/2″. I hoped that might help the back as well, but no.
Then an odd thing started happening. This pair of pants shrank. If you told me your polyester pants shrank, I would laugh and say “no way”. But I’m telling you today that I’ve now let out all of the ease I took in after the first fitting. The pants shrink and continue to shrink with each pressing. Which happens each time I restitch a seam. I have a sister fabric, i.e. the same type fabric purchased at the same time in a different color. I was thinking about using the sister fabric to test my changes. But I’ve decided that fabric needs to go into a generously sized PP113 so I can wear it a few times before it gets too small. I’m really surprised by the fabric. Purchased from Hancocks last fall, October I think. It was not cheap and not on sale. But it had been several months since I found myself in company with good fabric. Anytime I can find bottom weight i.e. pants fabrics, I buy.
I decided to do some testing of seam finishes. I question if the body of denim is what makes this pattern fit so well. 906 has always given me perfect or near perfect jeans But I’ve also always used it with denim, twill or canvas. Oh yes and tarp one time. At one time I purchased Trudy Jansens trouser pattern but could never get it to fit me well. I tried several times, several sizes. 902 just didn’t work. Which perplexed me but at the same time I had other well-fitting trousers and simply lost interest. My question applies to trousers as well. Is the solution to good fit stiff fabrics? Can this be achieved with seam finishes? So I made 4 samples (and may make more),
- Serged 4 thread seam.
- This is what I want to do. Just zoom and be done at the serger!
- Very flexible seam
- Hardly any body added
- Serged 4 thread seam Plus 2.5MM straight stitch at sewing machine.
- More work but usually what I do because it corrects ease discovered at the first fitting.
- Little body added to the seam. I wouldn’t have noticed except I was looking and comparing with my serged only seam
- Serged 4 thread seam, pressed to one side and top stitched.
- This gives the look of a flat felled seam and afterwards will be referred to as the FFS Faux Felled Seam.
- So much more work than the previous two, but the look is worth it.
- Slightly more body to the seam.
- One side Taped,FFS.
- Definitely tape before and not after seaming. Fit 08, seen above is the result of seam 2 followed by taping one side of the seam, pressing the seam to one side and then top stitching. I did only the center-back leg seam on both sides. It’s difficult both at the ironing board while taping and again at the SM while trying to sew a leg that’s already sewn.
- Most definitely adds body. This is almost like boning.
- Both sides taped, FFS
- May try this.
- Stitched and Boned
- Probably won’t try this. I can’t imagine sitting on boned seams would be comfortable.
- A Faux Boning?
- Would be possible to serge over yarn or twine or cording of some kind and add more firmness to the seam without affecting comfort or mobility?
- Wish I’d thought of this before trying to tape the seam. Zig zagging over a cording would have been easier than fusing and top stitching a finished leg. Or at least, irritating during 1 process instead of two.
I do think the last fit is much better than the first; and I do think that the taped seam is a major contributor to lessening the back leg wrinkles.
I think I’m done with this particular pant. Mostly because it keeps shrinking every time I press the seams. But I’m not done with the idea of beefing up the seams.