I’ve decided to morph my favorite fitting pant into a yoga pant. I expect some hiccups along the way because, Trudy Jansen 906 was developed as a jean draft for denim fabrics. Furthermore that would be a non-stretch denim. But it has much of the shape I want. It is semi fitted around the torso and thighs. For me that means it doesn’t reveal my every curve but skims over them without using lots of ease. This is one of the first patterns I worked with that also had a great crotch shape — for — ME. I often transfer at least the bottom curve of this pant to other patterns. I don’t understand why, I only know that the J shape which is lower in the back than the front crotch snugs up nicely over my nether regions. I want to do this morph slowly so that I know what causes any hiccups.
For this first iteration, I divided the back yoke and attached it to the back leg pieces. (TJ906 is the two-piece back leg pattern.) I eliminated the front and back pockets. I installed the zipper, serged the side and inseams and stitched the crotch before adding the curved waistband, belt loops and facings. Sigh, most of the time I don’t realize I’ve aged. But this is one of those experiences which tells me, I’m just not a spring chicken any more. I forgot that the seam allowances are all 3/8″. Worse, I forgot that the “1” stamped on the sewing machine throat plate is not 3/8 but 1 cm and that the serger was set for a scant 1/4″ SA. The result is a weirdly fitting pant:
Not the near perfection I was expecting. Once I realized the SA problem, most of the issues above just disappeared or at least relaxed into not bad. I also spent a few minutes decreased the flare. That’s something I’ve been intending to do. I still like a “baby flare” but for the most part I would prefer slim or semi-fitted cigarette legs. To me, this amount of flare just adds weight to the below waist portions of my figure.
I think I’m back to wearable status, especially with the true colors instead of the highly lightened photos above:
I hadn’t worked with this pattern in a while (other than the wadder attempt to merge the two back pieces into a single leg.) I’d forgotten some things.
Ok there was the issue of the seam allowances. I’ve now marked the SA’s so I won’t do that again.
I also need to make the waist band a little less long and more snug. Even a belt won’t always hold my pants into place. The waistband is a continuing problem for me because my waist can be one size in the morning a different at lunch and change again before or after dinner. I need an adjustable waistband. An elastic waistband or insert always works well. A belt usually but not always helps.
I need to shorten the front side length. See the little waves/drag lines about 4″ down from the waistband. Oddly, shortening the side length between the hip and waist takes care of those (both side and front view).
I also need to mark my front pattern piece to show exactly where the fold should be. This time I made it a full 1 CM. It was already nailed into place before I realized my mistake. Fortunately most of my tops will disguise the issue. But it’s better if I prevent those drag lines come from the tummy by stitching the center front where it should be. I’m always surprised that such a small amount makes such a big difference. By using 1CM, I took in the front a scant 1/4″. S-c-a-n-t. But that’s enough to go from near perfect into too tight.
I like the current leg width, but still would like something narrower. I’ve transferred the changes to the pattern pieces in such a manner that I can go back to this width. Also concerning me is that just the little bit difference makes the leg pull at the knee.
My last issue is with the fabric. . This is a microfiber twill. Has a napped face and satin back. Not really a beefy fabric, but definitely not a light weight. Also it is 100% polyester and in my experience warm. I think it works best in a trouser draft. Was hoping it would also be a great choice for a dressy yoga pant. I’m wondering if firming up the seams would help. Like with knit tops I always use fusible bias tape on the shoulders. That keeps the shoulders smooth and hanging nicely throughout the life of the top. I sometimes put the fusible tape on the neckline especially if it is a V or deep neckline. I’m really wondering if firming up the seams a little bit would help the look of my pants? Any thoughts? Has anyone done something similar?