In the last few weeks, I experimented with TJ906. Trudy Jansen’s Designer Jean which has a 2 piece back leg. I’ve made this successfully with many fabrics. Rarely experienced a wadder. OTOH I’ve tried multiple UNsuccessful times to alter a 1-piece back-leg jean. Just before this I attempted fitting B5403 again and failed miserably. I thought, why not try to convert TJ906 into a 1 piece back leg???
Using Monster paper, I cut the two back leg pieces. Then at the sewing machine, I stitched them together. I don’t think I ever realized how curvy that back leg is until I tried to persuade the stitched together pieces to lay flat. I ended up taking a 1/4″ dart at the inseam just below the crotch and a large 1″ dart on the side seam slightly above the first dart. It lay flat. But even with the yoke and waistband pinned into place, the side seams didn’t match. I slashed the back-leg side seam open just below the yoke and spread until the side seams were even.
I cut and stitched together in a flash. I’ve made so many copies of this jean I don’t even need to think about it. Also I wasn’t concerned about it not working. This was an experiment. If it worked great. If it didn’t well another wadder bites the dust. However it came close to fitting, So I ripped the side and inseams and did a little twiddling. I’m using a cotton twill in a taupe color that was purchased with musling in mind. I don’t remember when where or how much I paid for it. It is a fairly firm fabric but not stiff. It just doesn’t motivate me to make a lot of effort. I quit fitting and serged seams together when I realized that I had morphed a wonderfully fitting pattern into a garment that doesn’t quite work.
(A much lightened pictured)
I know I can blame the fabric, but I was really annoyed that the front and back developed wrinkles not previously seen; And even though I made a great effort to make the side seams the same length, it’s obvious by the ruching that they aren’t. Fronts normally fit and look beautiful. I can hardly believe that change the back leg made the difference in front, but there it is. Not only are there leg wrinkles but suddenly the front crotch is too short?? I took length out of the leg. Never even came closer than 1″ to the crotch. I’m not wearing a belt. So I can blame that too. Truth is the highly lightened view above shows much more than the real life view:
While I hate to admit having done this, I do have a pair of pants I can wear around the house.
What’s really interesting though is this comparison:
On the far left, is RTW jean that I’ve decided to buy. In the middle is the lastest version of TJ906 with the 1 piece back leg (pattern piece I’ve decided to discard). To the right is a pair of TJ906 jeans constructed with the 2 piece leg. Of the 3, I like the 2-piece leg the most. I won’t mess with the 1 piece again (documenting with this post so I have a record of the fail). The RTW, I might buy again. It is the best RTW jean I’ve tried on in years. In Y-E-A-R-S. Most fit in the waist but are too tight in the b utt. If the b utt fits, the waist is too large. Either the crotch crawls up into my divide or the RTW jean is too big all over. This Diane Gillman jean fits in the waist. The front, which I didn’t share, is beautiful. As is the side view. The back has the dreaded wrinkles between b utt and knee. I think a tish more hip circumference would help but it wouldn’t change the knock-knee issue. I also feel like it is slightly too long which is odd because the TJ906 on the right is practically dragging the ground and doesn’t feel long. I’m keeping this pair hoping that with a little time and body warmth, the hip issue will resolve itself. After all, denim will always warm and stretch.