Item 5 for the Winter 6PAC

I needed a 2nd pair of pants for my 6PAC and I needed to refit Pamela Pattern #113.  To my surprise adding the PBA to fit my protruding behind has actually introduced my dreaded X wrinkles. I couldn’t tell that with Ver1 or with Ver 2 but it was entirely evident when I made the Ponte version.  With that version (3), I blamed the fabric with the possibility of the waist treatment adding to the issues. But I could not deny that Version 4 made from a cotton crinkle and never shared; or  version 5 a cotton twill (not shared) also badly suffered from the same X wrinkles.  Why? Why suddenly was I seeing X wrinkles?  I looked carefully at PBA Versions 1 and 2 and realized that the wrinkles were lightly indicated.  Those particular fabrics had the right kind of body to minimize the X wrinkles.  Well not all bottom weight fabrics are made cotton/rayon or cotton/lycra. Actually the cotton/rayon in a bottom weight was/is a rare find. Why the PBA should create X wrinkles is a mystery to me. A mystery I don’t want to solve right now.  At the moment I want to complete my winter 6PACs. So I want to use the best of my pants patterns, TJ906 and PP113. Er the version of Pp113 that produced perfect trousers.

Except the original version has gone missing.  How could I have lost it?  I remember carefully labeling, folding and placing in the envelope. Later moving all the pieces from the envelope to a 6 page folder and finally moving all to a 13-sectioned filer. The very first section is labeled “Original Fit”. But it is empty.  The stretch fit has its 2 pieces. The PBA has it’s 2 pieces. But the original fit is empty.  The original fit was not misfiled, or hanging elsewhere.  So I begin the process of fitting from scratch. Again.

I read back through my entries and decided upon size, the front and full back.  My alterations were limited to adding 1″ to the back’s side seams and reducing leg length 2″.

My fabric is a beautiful, high quality twill with slight stretch.  If I remember correctly, this was purchased from Hancocks and has a polyester/lycra content. I stress again, it is high quality. This is not the fabric of inexpensive Walmart slacks. For a twill, it is heavy and thick. It sheds wrinkles.  It took 3 tweaks to make this into a classic trouser with beautiful fit. I wrote down every change both on the fabric and on paper . Before putting away the pieces, I also  summarized all the changes. I may need this again.

Unfortunately this fabric is also darkest black. Even lightened 100%, you can’t see the details.

I chose to use the Faux-Welt pocket. I don’t like stitching pockets after the pant is half-way put together.  (Pam’s recommendation is sew the pant together; check fit and then add pockets).  I stitched the pocket in place and then basted it closed with WST before proceeding to baste the pant together and complete fitting. I have left lots of ease. Which is good and maybe not so good.  As is, my hem circumference is 22″.  I prefer a hem circumference between 16 and 20″. I left it because this fabric wanted to reveal VPL even with 1/2″ less ease. I don’t know why. It irritated me but at the same time I thought with this much ease any of my woven fabrics should fit. Also it’s only a matter of time before wide trouser legs are back in fashion.

Anyway there it is, Piece #5 and my 2nd pair of pants for the Winter 6PAC


TJ906, 1 Piece Back Leg and DG2 Jeans

In the last few weeks, I experimented with TJ906. Trudy Jansen’s Designer Jean which  has a 2 piece back leg.  I’ve made this successfully with many fabrics. Rarely experienced a wadder. OTOH I’ve tried multiple UNsuccessful times to alter a 1-piece back-leg jean.  Just before this I attempted fitting B5403 again and failed miserably. I thought, why not try to convert TJ906 into a 1 piece back leg???

Using Monster paper, I cut the two back leg pieces.  Then at the sewing machine, I stitched them together.  I don’t think I ever realized how curvy that back leg is until I tried to persuade the stitched together pieces to lay flat. I ended up taking a 1/4″ dart at the inseam just below the crotch and a large 1″ dart on the side seam slightly above the first dart. It lay flat. But even with the yoke and waistband pinned into place, the side seams didn’t match.  I slashed the back-leg side seam open just below the yoke and spread until the side seams were even.

I cut and stitched together in a flash. I’ve made so many copies of this jean I don’t even need to think about it. Also I wasn’t concerned about it not working. This was an experiment. If it worked great. If it didn’t well another wadder bites the dust.  However it came close to fitting, So I ripped the side and inseams and did a little twiddling.  I’m using a cotton twill in a taupe color that was purchased with musling in mind. I don’t remember when where or how much I paid for it.  It is a fairly firm fabric but not stiff. It just doesn’t motivate me to make a lot of effort. I quit fitting and serged seams together when I realized that I had morphed a wonderfully fitting pattern into a garment that doesn’t quite work.

(A much lightened pictured)

I know I can blame the fabric, but I was really annoyed that the front and back developed wrinkles not previously seen; And even though I made a great effort to make the side seams the same length, it’s obvious by the ruching that they aren’t.  Fronts normally fit and look beautiful. I can hardly believe that change the back leg made the difference in front, but there it is. Not only are there leg wrinkles but suddenly the front crotch is too short?? I took length out of the leg. Never even came closer than 1″ to the crotch.  I’m not wearing a belt. So I can blame that too. Truth is the highly lightened view above shows much more than the real life view:

While I hate to admit having done this, I do have a pair of pants I can wear around the house.

What’s really interesting though is this comparison:

On the far left, is RTW jean that I’ve decided to buy. In the middle is the lastest version of TJ906 with the 1 piece back leg (pattern piece I’ve decided to discard). To the right is a pair of TJ906 jeans constructed with the 2 piece leg.  Of the 3, I like the 2-piece leg the most. I won’t mess with the 1 piece again (documenting with this post so I have a record of the fail).  The RTW, I might buy again. It is the best RTW jean I’ve tried on in years. In Y-E-A-R-S.  Most fit in the waist but are too tight in the b utt.  If the b utt fits, the waist is too large.  Either the crotch crawls up into my divide or the RTW jean is too big all over. This Diane Gillman jean fits in the waist. The front, which I didn’t share, is beautiful.  As is the side view.  The back has the dreaded wrinkles between b utt and knee. I think a tish more hip circumference would help but it wouldn’t change the knock-knee issue. I also feel like it is slightly too long which is odd because the TJ906 on the right is practically dragging the ground and doesn’t feel long.  I’m keeping this pair hoping that with a little time and body warmth, the hip issue will resolve itself. After all, denim will always warm and stretch.