I purchase a fabulous Ponte early this year while visiting Ft Collins Co. It is a thick, beefy, spongy fabric. I thought it would make perfect pants. I wanted great pants and chose to use PP113 because that has been such a fabulous pattern for me. I mean, I’ve made at least 5 versions of this pattern. Each better than the previously.
I thought it was time to make a knit version of the pattern. I’ve worked out all the fitting issues and already tested knits. Like Pamela, I need to increase the side seam to an even 1″ (My normal SA is 1/4″. So I’m taking in about 3/4 more on each side seam.) I traced the pattern and vertically folded out 1/2″ evenly from top to bottom on both front and back. I have worked with knits that were so stable, they needed to be treated as wovens. My thought was most knits I use for pants will need a 1/2″ seam. Those that are more stable could be stitched at 1/4″ and those that are stretchier could be sewn with a larger seam allowance 3/4″ or more. Having done so many the exact same style, I craved changed I elected to add the faux welt pocket and narrow the leg. I also chose to use the magic waist band. I created a template that would add 1″ to the top of both the front and back.
I omitted the front zipper; happily serged the inseams and crotches together. Fortunately I had presence of mind or maybe just by habit, I basted the side seams and hems into place. I stitched my elastic into a circle and tried my pants on as directed by Pamela. To my surprise, these were obviously too tight in the rear but too loose in front. Yes they were. VPL was plainly, in-you-face apparent on back. the front drooped and yet floated. I decided it was a matter of individually adjusting ease front and back because the side seam was absolutely perpendicular to the floor and bisecting my side perfectly. I offset the side seams to make a 1/4″ Sa for the back and 3/4″ on the front. I trimmed another 1/4″ scoop from the front at the waistband to rid some of the droopiness….. and tried them on again. This time no VPL and the front looked good enough so I added the faux welt pocket.
You must try the faux welt. It really would be easy had I added it while the fronts were still two different pieces. Because I checked fit, I was adding the pockets with the inseams and crotches stitched together. It’s a lot of fabric to bus around. Once the faux welt was completed, I stitched side-seams added the magic waistband and stitched hems.
Then I put the pants on for final pictures and ….
…….the real fitting began. I really should have known this: I cannot fit pants to myself until everything including waistband is basted into place. Between the fitting and final stitching my pants were crawling up my crotch and the legs had developed the dreaded X wrinkles. I was bewildered. I re-read the waistband instructions to see if I’d one something wrong. The previous magic pants had fit beautifully. I had used the pattern with all the ease; no pockets and a different fabric. Did those factors really make all that difference?? I scooped the crotch 1/2″ and carefully adjusted the pant on my body so that the top edge of the waistband was really at my waist and not above.
These are what they are including pockets that pooch despite the front still looking like it has too much ease, and excess wrinkles under the bum. At least they no longer creep uncomfortably into my hoo-hah. Seriously, I blame the fabric. After I removed the worst of the back-action, I narrowed the legs a total of 2″ (1/2″ each seam * two seams = 2″ per leg). I kind of like the leg width at 18″ but wouldn’t mind if it iwas narrower. This is a heavy fabric which I thought was also a little dressy. I anticipated wearing these the rest of fall and into winter. During that type of weather I’m also wearing a long-sleeve top which would be untucked and totally cover my behind but not the leg. The upper part of the leg will be covered by my 3rd layer which is usually mid-hip or tunic length. IOW I will be able to wear these without shame.
Did I mention this was an expensive fabric? I paid $18/per yard the tag said normally $29 (I’m a bargain hunter). It takes 2 yards for pants. (I’m short and have a short but deep crotch. ) So I’m at about $40 for these pants. I may be out of sync with the times, but for $40 I expect better looking pants and I mean from all views including the front.
Still the fabric feels fabulous. I’d like to have several more yards of it. Unfortunately, Ft Collins is a long ways away and I’m not sure I’ll ever get back there. I did not find an equal fabric within 200 miles of me and buying on-line is iffy. Maybe I’ll get something this good but probably not. I’d love to make several pairs until I figure out what to do to make it into fabulous pants instead of just passable.