sdBev's Pants!

PBA2

Posted on: May 27, 2014

I have things to share, but finding the loss of my pen-tablet functions to be severely hampering. I’m excited enough about my 2nd go at PBA2 to persist through the frustration. That and having finally decided which tablet I want, finding out it won’t be here until about June 4th. I like ordering from Amazon. I do wish that estimated delivery times were stated by non-Amazon warehouses. Had I known it would be nearly 2 weeks, I might have bought something else or hied myself to a big city. So onto PBA 2

My fabric is a cotton/rayon blend in a summery yellow color. I was concerned it would not be heavy enough for pants.  I need light weight pants for summer. I burn easily and there are cooler days and places where a bit more coverage is desirable. But I don’t want to expose my underwear either as a visible panty line from a too tight cut or as a shadow beneath the outer layer. I’m happy to say this fabric is perfect. Its rayon content provides a wonderful drape.  It might have been perfect for even a fuller-cut leg like the One-Seams of old.

Indeed, this side view shows how much ease is in the medium-size of Pamerla’s Patterns Style 113.  I’m rather happy with PP113 and in particular, this version. Because of the protruding b utt alteration, I have not added any width to the hemline. It is 20″ as the designer drafted.

What’s very different about this PP113 version, and excites me, is the placement of the PBA.

Red=PBA1; Green=PBA2

 

On the first version of the PBA (Red lines), I split my back pattern piece the red lines.The lines disected the crotch and waist lines leaving hinges at side seam and hem. The pattern was spread along the lines.  I felt this was a qualified success. PBA1 also did not add ease at the hem, but did add between crotch and knee.  I might have left it alone except I don’t really want billows of fabric over my back thigh. Rather than trousers, I want slacks. I want something that instead of concealing the body beneath, hints at curves and shape.

So I attempted the PBA a second time. As shown with the green lines, the back leg is again disected vertically along the grain. The waist is bisected and opens as much as needed but that split stops just below the tush.  The horizontal split was placed 1″ below the darts because that is where my b utt sticks out the furtherest. OK my b utt is not really a point. From that point and  about an inch my b utt is the same large width. I decided since  that’s the first point at which I start needing the maximum width, that would be the point to start adding extra width. To my delight, the vertical split did not need to descend as far into the leg.  I spread the vertical slash apart 3/4″ (instead of the 1″ last time) and secured it with a little tape. I did the same with the horizontal slash and then smoothed all the flapping pieces, persuading them to lie flat. The back crotch opened up over an inch effectively adding length to the back crotch.  The first fitting was heavenly–almost. The pant felt truly wonderful. Granted the fabric has a lot to do with that but I’ve noticed everytime I really improve the fit of my garments, they feel remarkably more comfortable. My first fitting however showed that the back crotch was now too long. I’m using the same front piece as fit with PBA1. For PBA1  I needed to shorten the front crotch length by about the same amount as I  now removed from the back.  I think that the PBA could be the “magical” alteration I’ve been looking for.

Before I share the back view, let me say that I had the same camera problems as always and…

my right pant leg got hung up around the high hip. Another step forward, a shifting of the weight, even a quick tug and smooth and my right leg would have looked as good as my left.

I won’t be altering the fit of this pant pattern further (unless I change shapes again).  I will be converting to magic pants and pull-ons; adding pockets other details AND most importantly slimming the leg. This 20″ hem circumference is the widest that I like to wear.  Any larger and the pant looks like it is wearing me instead of the other way around.  It is the same width as flared style jeans drafted by Jalie or Trudy Jansens (TJ906).  In the past, I’ve successfully narrowed the leg between knee and hem as much as 3″. I’m also still concerned about the amount of ease over the back thigh.  I am wondering if I I can shorten the back fork.  It’s something I might work with in the future.  My concern as always is avoiding the Big X wrinkles that develop between knee and b utt.

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5 Responses to "PBA2"

They look good Bev. I think you have cracked it!

I think I’ve been looking for the PBA and didn’t know it.

That looks great! I’m hoping I have as good success with a PBA. I cut out a muslin this morning….

I’ve only found this alteration in one book, so my guess would be that most people won’t benefit from the PBA. EXCEPT that maybe most drafters/fitters address the need for more room in the rear by 1″ side-seam allowances. That does work. I mean my first version of 113’s fit nicely by using the 1″ side seam. But then I had a weirdly shaped side seam on the back pieces and excess ease under the thigh and in the hem. I like this PBA better because it’s quicker and targets exactly my problem area. If you continue to have pant fitting issues (like I did), I hope this is a solution for you too!

I’ve even studying pants fittings in a never ending saga of trying to get mine right. With that preface, I’ll offer a couple of observations: before you do anything to knees, thighs, etc. scoop the back crotch and you may also need to lower and scoop at the same time. To test, pinch in a little on each side of back crotch about 3/4 way down back crotch and continue through curve. When you scoop, you will also probably need more width and you just add a touch to your side seams to accommodate body space. I reference SarahVeblen.com for her brand new PDF monograph on fitting pants. With this, I finally understand how to scoop and drop! I highly recommend it. Good luck.

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