I wanted new jeans. You can’t be dressed up (in my neck of the woods) unless you are wearing new jeans. I’ve been wearing my last pairs of 906’s until they have faded and are starting to fray. Since the old pairs seem to fit, I decided to whip up a new pair.
Then I pulled out my folder. I have my TNT’s including Trudy Jansen Designer Jeans pattern #906, in plastic, multi-sheaved folders. They are separated so that I can grab them quickly to compare with new patterns, or as today, make a quick garment. Multi-sheaved so that minor style changes that require new pieces can be kept with the master pattern. To my surprise, my folder contained 3 tracings of the 906 including a brand new never altered tissue. I checked this blog and found the last time I’d used this pattern was nearly a year ago, March 2013. No wonder all my jeans are faded and fraying! I have no idea why I left the pattern in that condition. It is usual for me to keep the last old version ONLY until I have the new version fit. I have this habit of changing sizes every few years. Don’t like it, but my solution is to refit favorite patterns and toss the others. So I’m looking at 3 versions and wondering why I have this mess. Why did I have a new untouched tracing? Why didn’t I toss at least one of the other versions? I thought back and remembered how horrified I was early last year, to find that I had lost the Christmas weight but gained inches. I was refitting patterns at that time. Why I didn’t finish, I don’t know. But hating the confusion, I tossed all but the untouched tissue. I made minimal alterations, shortening the legs, and walked the seams. Then I pulled out a non-stretch corduroy and cut a trial pair.
This is a score for me in one of my goals, that of using the older fabric. This corduroy is 100% cotton and likely a Walmart purchase at least 20 years ago. I say likely because it was a 4 yard cut. I quit buying 4 yard cuts at least 10 years ago. I had been buying fabric in sufficient yardage to make both pants and a jacket or skirt and a blouse. Full outfits rather than coordinates. About 15 years ago I realized I was going to be retiring. At the time I wasn’t sure how quickly but I could tell I had more suit fabrics than I would sew in my remaining 10 projected-years of work. As things happened I retired 5 years after deciding to purchase in smaller quantities. Even before that, I had developed a preference for a slight amount of lycra in my clothing. Lycra allowed me to fit my clothing closer without restricting movement. I didn’t discard those non-stretch fabrics because they are very useful for fitting new patterns. I much prefer to fit all my patterns, including stretch patterns using a non-stretch fabric. Then when fitting the stretch-fabric garment, remove the excess ease. This works for me, but may not help anyone else. You see, I prefer more ease in my garments. The much-lauded Style Arc line of patterns are a total waste of money for me. Style Arc is closely fitted for the young and trendy. While I like the trends, I don’t like close fit. But I’ve nattered on far to long
I practically zipped these together. I serged and permanently stitched everything except the waistband. Oh and the back pockets. I forget to even cut them out. I top stitched the hand opening for the front pocket using my cover stitch machine. I also used the cover stitch to create belt loops. I wasn’t entirely sure how this pant would fit until I tried it on.
Gorgeous! Just to prove it, here is a much lightened view:
Interestingly, the waist appears to dip in the full front view, but is level and horizontal from the side view. I won’t make any adjustments unless that continues to happen. I used only 1 hook and eye (the 4 piece set type) and placed it midway on the waistband. I’m not sure if placing the hook and eye higher is the solution to the slight gaping of the center front. The waist band seemed wider some how. I could trim the waistband just slightly because it sits right at my natural waist. It should sit just below. I did have an issue serging the back leg to the yoke. I need either to trim the leg to fit the yoke, or make the yoke longer. Since the waist fits and the waistband was easy to install, I think I’ll trim the back leg. During wear, the thigh seems a little tight. Normally I make these jeans from 2-4% stretch denim which probably would take care of this issue. I’ll keep it in mind, but I’m not adding ease unless it continues to a problem.
It’s a good pattern. I love the center back seam in the leg. This is the only pant pattern in which I don’t struggle with too much ease over the back thigh. It’s the reason I wanted to change the Eureka pant into a 3 piece leg. (Epic fail). TJ906 is superior in this regard than PP113, the pattern I’m really excited with right now. Without question, I will make 906 again and again. I wanted to document my experience and possible changes here. My blogs are wonderful stores of information for me. They make it so easy to look up a pattern, see what I did and my thoughts, including changes, about it. I want to work through the versions of PP113 and perfect the fit of that pattern before making more 906’s. When I’m ready, I’ll review this blog and know what I need to do for another perfect pair of jeans!
I also have aspirations of making a 3 piece trouser, starting with this pattern. But that’s food for thought for another time.