PP113

Pants Perfected -Tracing and Altering the Pattern.

Pamela, the lady who built the perfect T shirt for millions of women (including moi), has released a pants pattern

When I read the announcement at Stitchers Guild, I couldn’t get fast enough to Pamela Patterns site and buy both the pattern and DVD.  I’ll give a full review of the DVD later. Right now I’m  entangled in the siren song of a new pattern.

Using the patterns instructions I selected a size medium. My 43.5″ hip puts me smack in the middle of this range. Usually, I’m a large. I am. I know I am. But I’ll play along with whatever sizing a designer wants to use as long as they clue me in. I traced the size medium.  I trace all my expensive patterns as well as magazine patterns and some of the Big 4.  To my horror, I change sizes every few years. It’s actually easier to refit a previous TNT than it is to start with a new unknown pattern. But I digress, I traced the size medium and the full back.  (Does that make me a football player?)  The Eureka Pant’s full back had been such a delight that I decided immediately to take advantage of the option on this pattern.  I also traced all the pocket parts and both waistbands.  I think it lovely that I can fit this pattern once and end up with 5-6 different versions.

Pamela recommends Tissue Fitting per Palmer Pletsch methods but she also encourages you to do what works best for you. Tissue fitting is a nightmare for me.  I don’t have any help. I must fit all my garments using tape measure, mirror and camera.  A tissue pattern disintegrates before I get anywhere near a reasonable fit. No tissue fitting for me, but I do some checking and pattern alterations before hand. For this pattern, I chose to compare with my TNT MSS pants pattern.  I loved the MSS pattern.  Most of my changes consisted of adding ease to the back and removing the same amount from the front.  It only took 1 pair of MSS pants to start producing good looking summer shorts. I like the Eureka but its full back is so different from any other pant pattern  I’ve used (and I have been able to fit a fair number of pants patterns).  I just think comparing such a different draft wouldn’t be fair and maybe not accurate.

Once I’ve fit a pattern I trim the seam allowances to 1/4 and 3/8″ inches. The PP113 (Pamela’s Pants Perfected) uses 1.5″ hems, 1″ side and inseam and 5/8″ SAs everywhere else.  To be comparing apples to apples, I dotted the PP113 along the crotch waist and inseam so that the cutting lines of the MSS should be the same as the dotted line of PP113. I compared the front first.  I was really concerned about the front crotch.  Both pants fit in the DVD are either too long in the crotch or suffer with a bad draft that causes camel toe. Neither are attractive features.  When tracing the front I noted that the front hook was rather long.  By comparing the 2 patterns, I realized that the length was strictly a result of making the inseam allowance 1″.    The leg needs to be shortened 2.5″. I need to trim 1/4″ from the crotch, and side seam. The waist is about 1/2″ too high (even subtracting the 1/4″ seam allowance difference).  I’m not going to trim that until I get to fabric.  I believe my eyes. It’s just that I’d rather wait until I add the waistband to make the final crotch height adjustment.

The backs were pretty similar. I’ll need to trim the 1/4″ from the crotch and side seam, 3/4″ from the inseam and 2.5″ from the leg length, but the crotch is short almost a full inch (not including the 1/4″ difference in seam allowance.)   This is sort of a surprise and makes me uneasy.  Pamela recommends offsetting the inseams to gain the extra needed crotch length. Still uneasy, I pull out the Eureka back and compare. Well, holy cow. These two back are nearly identical. According to the Eureka back I need to shorten the leg 2.5″ and trim 1/4″ from the side seams.  I believe in the Keep It Simple theory, so for now, I’m using the changes shown in the Eureka/PP113 comparison.  I shortened the leg length along the designated line.  Normally, I shorten that much in two different places. However the leg tapers at a steady, small rate and I think that shortening in one place followed by truing the side and inseams will work.   One other note. Both the MSS and Eureka, as a final fitting measure, were scooped in the back crotch.  As of now, I think that may not be necessary in the PP113.

I’m having problems charging my camera so no pictures at this stage.

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6 thoughts on “Pants Perfected -Tracing and Altering the Pattern.”

  1. Sounds like you’re on a roll! I did cut out some fabric but haven’t sewn it yet. I need to serge the fabric first. Anxious to see the fit of yours. This pattern seems to have lots of potential.
    Marcia

    1. I told myself I had to finish the jeans I started but I just couldn’t resist the siren song. I’m moving right along. Hope you’re close behind.

    1. Pamela’s T shirt pattern was such a success for me personally that I couldn’t help myself when I learned she had drafted a pants pattern for our “maturing” figures. Yes I’ll be posting all the details of my experience. Thanks for posting your support.

  2. Thank you for sharing your experience! It will certainly help, I am sure, when I start mine. Because of your review I am sure that will be sooner rather than later.

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