Pamela, the lady who built the perfect T shirt for millions of women (including moi), has released a pants pattern
When I read the announcement at Stitchers Guild, I couldn’t get fast enough to Pamela Patterns site and buy both the pattern and DVD. I’ll give a full review of the DVD later. Right now I’m entangled in the siren song of a new pattern.
Using the patterns instructions I selected a size medium. My 43.5″ hip puts me smack in the middle of this range. Usually, I’m a large. I am. I know I am. But I’ll play along with whatever sizing a designer wants to use as long as they clue me in. I traced the size medium. I trace all my expensive patterns as well as magazine patterns and some of the Big 4. To my horror, I change sizes every few years. It’s actually easier to refit a previous TNT than it is to start with a new unknown pattern. But I digress, I traced the size medium and the full back. (Does that make me a football player?) The Eureka Pant’s full back had been such a delight that I decided immediately to take advantage of the option on this pattern. I also traced all the pocket parts and both waistbands. I think it lovely that I can fit this pattern once and end up with 5-6 different versions.
Pamela recommends Tissue Fitting per Palmer Pletsch methods but she also encourages you to do what works best for you. Tissue fitting is a nightmare for me. I don’t have any help. I must fit all my garments using tape measure, mirror and camera. A tissue pattern disintegrates before I get anywhere near a reasonable fit. No tissue fitting for me, but I do some checking and pattern alterations before hand. For this pattern, I chose to compare with my TNT MSS pants pattern. I loved the MSS pattern. Most of my changes consisted of adding ease to the back and removing the same amount from the front. It only took 1 pair of MSS pants to start producing good looking summer shorts. I like the Eureka but its full back is so different from any other pant pattern I’ve used (and I have been able to fit a fair number of pants patterns). I just think comparing such a different draft wouldn’t be fair and maybe not accurate.
Once I’ve fit a pattern I trim the seam allowances to 1/4 and 3/8″ inches. The PP113 (Pamela’s Pants Perfected) uses 1.5″ hems, 1″ side and inseam and 5/8″ SAs everywhere else. To be comparing apples to apples, I dotted the PP113 along the crotch waist and inseam so that the cutting lines of the MSS should be the same as the dotted line of PP113. I compared the front first. I was really concerned about the front crotch. Both pants fit in the DVD are either too long in the crotch or suffer with a bad draft that causes camel toe. Neither are attractive features. When tracing the front I noted that the front hook was rather long. By comparing the 2 patterns, I realized that the length was strictly a result of making the inseam allowance 1″. The leg needs to be shortened 2.5″. I need to trim 1/4″ from the crotch, and side seam. The waist is about 1/2″ too high (even subtracting the 1/4″ seam allowance difference). I’m not going to trim that until I get to fabric. I believe my eyes. It’s just that I’d rather wait until I add the waistband to make the final crotch height adjustment.
The backs were pretty similar. I’ll need to trim the 1/4″ from the crotch and side seam, 3/4″ from the inseam and 2.5″ from the leg length, but the crotch is short almost a full inch (not including the 1/4″ difference in seam allowance.) This is sort of a surprise and makes me uneasy. Pamela recommends offsetting the inseams to gain the extra needed crotch length. Still uneasy, I pull out the Eureka back and compare. Well, holy cow. These two back are nearly identical. According to the Eureka back I need to shorten the leg 2.5″ and trim 1/4″ from the side seams. I believe in the Keep It Simple theory, so for now, I’m using the changes shown in the Eureka/PP113 comparison. I shortened the leg length along the designated line. Normally, I shorten that much in two different places. However the leg tapers at a steady, small rate and I think that shortening in one place followed by truing the side and inseams will work. One other note. Both the MSS and Eureka, as a final fitting measure, were scooped in the back crotch. As of now, I think that may not be necessary in the PP113.
I’m having problems charging my camera so no pictures at this stage.