Once I developed my pattern pieces, I turned my attention to fabric. I was fairly sure that unless the serger ate the fabric or some other disaster befell, I would end up with a wearable pant. So no need to look for muslin but I did want to use a fabric light enough in color that I could see any drag lines. Plus, this is winter. I want warm pants to cover my legs during these neg 0 days. I decided upon a ponte purchased from Hancocks last fall. It is a good fabric. Not the cheap Ponte that I used for the Yoga muslin but not the excellent Ponte de Roma sitting in the stack of black fabrics. I believe , many years ago, I had RTW pants in this same fabric. I loved it at the time. So comfortable to wear. Laundered beautifully. I thought the fit was terrific, but that was before I started taking pictures to check fit. My one complaint was that they lasted little more than a year and then I couldn’t find equivalents. I mean, I loved them enough to forgive the fact that 9 months of wearing once a week caused them to develop pills on the inner thigh. I would have gladly purchased them again and in several colors. After discussing fabric weights with my sewing angel, I was concerned if it would be heavy enough for pants. But I went ahead. I had 62″ wide and 2-1/3 yards of fabric. The 3 piece leg can be a fabric hog but I ended up with a 1/3 yard scrap. Didn’t need a crotch gusset (a fabric saving technique I often use.) Fortunately, this is the kind of stuff you can use for bindings.
I wanted a pocket. These pocket-less pants are driving me nuts especially on the days when I’m wearing a pocket-less vest. I have no way to carry my cell or a tissue. I’ve been avoiding pockets while tweaking the Eureka’s fit. This time I chose to make a pocket very similar to the one Kathy’s Rudy uses in her One Pattern Many Looks class. I used a deeper scoop for the hand entry. My experience with Ponte suggests treating it like a non-stretch fabric. You’d think a knit would stretch and I can measure some stretch in the flat fabric stage. But during wear the Ponte’s I’ve owned seem to not “give” like an interlock or other knit fabric and definitely don’t grow like denim. But there’s a first time for everything. So considering there’s a possibility I might need to take in the side seams, I made the scoop a bit deeper so I wouldn’t loose my hand opening. The back pocket piece is larger than Kathy uses. I like a generous pocket. If I’m carrying something, I want it to snuggle down and stay inside the pocket. With shallow pockets, I tend to lose my possessions. I had plenty of fabric, so both pocket back and the front pocket facing were cut from Ponte.
I interfaced the pocket facing and the waistband. Boy that was enlightening. I cut my leftover interfacing scraps into 1-1/4 and 3″ widths. I use those in hems, waistbands and now this pocket facing. I’m fairly sure I was grabbing ProWeft Medium from Fashion Sewing Supply. I wondered what this pant would be like had I interfaced all the fabric. That would make it kind of pricey. I did buy this Ponte on sale. Even then it was $10/yard. Add the interfacing at $12/yard and I could be buying some expensive RTW (if it fit). I decided since this was still kind of an experiment with possibility of failure, I wouldn’t interface this time.
OK, so I stitched the pockets and front zipper with permanent stitching. Then I swapped the bobbin out for the water-soluble thread and basted all the pieces together. Just lickety split and try on the pants. I’ve used this pattern many times. Just made good fitting pants 2 weeks ago. The scale says I’ve not added any pounds. I’ve started Yoga, but don’t expect to see any results so quickly. I can pinch almost a full inch of ease on both sides. So how come, there is a faint visible panty line? It may not be what you think. Static is killing us. DH regularly shocks me. I mean with static. Gives a little extra zing when lips meet. But back to the pants, the over all fit was still good just had evidence of static cling. Oh and maybe it would have been a good idea to interface the Ponte. Any how, I finished the pant. Serged all the seams. Added the waistband and belt loops. Hemmed the legs. AND got called for dinner. Guess that’s enough for one day.