Eureka Pant, Yoga

Eureka Yoga Finished

Done! Yes! But not without a little effort.

During fitting, I kept noticing that the crotch depth now seemed just a short.  Imagine my surprise when I measured the Yoke piece and found it was 1/2″ shorter than planned. Yep I’d cut it at 6″ instead of 6.5″.  Also, I planned to wear these just at waist level, but dang! I kept pulling the elastic up so that the bottom edge of the elastic rested at the waistline. My solution was to cut a second yoke  8.5″  wide which included the amount needed for waist band (1″*2) plus the seam allowances I’d omitted previously.  This caused another problem.  I cut the first yoke cross grain which stretched perfectly to fit the leg portion.  The new yoke had to be cut on-grain.  This ponte fabric has less stretch lengthwise.  I really had to tug to ease yoke #2 to the leg.

I planned to fold out 1/4″ length across the crotch and again above the knee.  This would remove a total of 1/2″ length.  Instead I folded out the 1/4″ at crotch and knee on the back but only folded out 1/4″ length across the front crotch.  At the same time I mismarked the knee HBL.  How do you do that?  Well my pattern has both the Knee HBL as designated by the designer and a second Knee HBL where my actual knee occurs.  There’s about an inch difference.  When I first started detecting ruching along the front leg, I attributed it to the mismarked HBL. After all that was something I had seen when trying to match the side seams.  I had not corrected the marking on the pant. I had smoothed the bottom leg across the top as I saw Angela Wolf and Kathy Ruddy doing in their classes.  Following that procedure, the legs matched.  Looking at those early pics, though, told me that I had missed something.  I walked the side and inseams and discovered the back leg was 1/2″ shorter from knee to hem and 1/4″ longer from Hip HBL to waist. I corrected the pattern for future use and trimmed the excess from pant.

I added a pocket!

Unlike the Pullon Pant, I was able to add a pocket without adding layers and layer of fabric in the waist area.  This is a simple patch pocket. I lined it, turned inside out and top stitched to the leg. I really am happy about this.  There are so many times when I need a place to tuck a kleenex or other small item.

I tried the CLA with intended changes i.e. my center pivot point is an inch lower and my top point was at the crotch instead of the widest hip. I’m not posting a picture because it was horrible. It made the wrinkles visibly worse. I’m not sure if that’s because I need so much removed or just something inherent to the alteration.I’m not exactly giving up on the CLA, but I’m not going to attempt it again until I have new information.  I did take advantage of Crafty’s last sale and am now working my way through Sandra Betzina’s Pants Fitting course. I’ve seen Sandra before and don’t know what to make of this course.  I’m already onto Lesson 4 and have learned nothing (other than I’m glad I didn’t pay the full price.) Also, it seems rushed and jumpy to me. Maybe it’s just that she is putting out so much more information than in comparison with her TV show. Maybe she really is rushing. Maybe I’d be more thrilled if I was making lots of notes. I promise to give a full review when I’ve finished the course. At this point, I’m still hoping she can suggest another solution for the back wrinkle situation. Because this:

didn’t thrill me either.  Wrinkles at the Yoke are probably caused by the 2nd yoke not being as stretch as the first. it will be covered up, so I’m not too sad.  I also note that in my effort to be sure the crotch was long enough, the yoke now seems to be too tall.  However that could be the result of the back being slightly too tight. Thankfully, also covered up by my tops. The leg on the left is not too bad. The one on the right has me asking questions.  Is my knee brace contributing to the wrinkles? I’m I standing oddly?  Do I really have an asymmetrical hip; and despite my Herculean efforts to correct leg lengths, both legs are obviously twisting between knee and hem.  So glad these are dark, light absorbing black, because in real life they feel great and don’t look bad at all

OK, I knew this first version of a Yoga style would be a wearable muslin. I’m not unqualifiedly in love with ponte. To me, this particular version always says “cheap” pants. It does hold up well to my normal laundry procedure and does recover fairly well to bending and stretching. So I”m not too unhappy that these aren’t perfect. In fact, I’m almost glad. Because if they were, I’d be lamenting them like I did the  Pull-on pant. I hate to make a perfectly fitting anything in poor fabric..  I’ll wear them until I make something better in the same color. If the yoke had stretched appropriately, I’d give the front two-thumbs up.  The side seam was perpendicular but still shows some issues with the leg length matching. The back view is puzzling. The left side looks OK. The right side look like: What the heck is going on?

I’ve already made changes to the pattern.

Yoke size is now 7″.5  x 21″

Side seams have been walked and are same length

Knee and Hip  HBL lines are at the same level on both back and front pieces. (This is where I place my notches.)

Back vertical tuck was removed adding 1/2″ ease to the back piece.

I think I’m ready to make another pair!

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