sdBev's Pants!

Eureka Pull-Ons

Posted on: December 18, 2013

Almost since the Eureka pattern arrived in the mail, I’ve been looking forward to making style changes. With this version I tackled the basic pull-on pant. While not my favorite style, it is the beginning of the Yoga and Loes Hines Euro pant styles which I do love.

Before making the style changes, I stopped to reconsider the alterations already made.  I was continually perplexed about the front length between waist and hip. I made several adjustments without seeming to fix the issue.  In sheer desperation, I pulled out the original and compared my heavily altered copy.  Once lined up together, I could easily see that I had somehow not made the length reduction evenly across the high hip line. In fact, the waist clearly inclines upward from side seam to center front. This alteration was made by slashing and overlapping. So I released the tape and carefully aligned the edges to make an even adjustment. I’ve reduced the pattern at the top by over 2″, but it is now evenly horizontal.

2ndly, I walked the seams once again.  To my surprise the front leg between knee and hem is 1/4″ shorter on the front. But the back was 1/8″ longer between hip and waist. The back inseam is also shorter, a theory I don’t really believe. I trimmed the side seams to correct lengths and added about 3/8″ to the tip of the crotch. This is the first time I have made any changes to the crotch.  I added at the same angle as the existing crotch and inseam convergence. The end result looks like I’ve scooped the crotch or copied the TJ906 back crotch.

Next, my sewing angel and I have been discussing the excess front ease.  This will be the 3rd pant, CLD-MSS and B5403 were the previous, in which I removed 1″ from the front and add 1″ to the back.  This is a quick and easy alteration. On the front I fold along the grainline from waist to hem 1/2″. This removes 1″ from the entire front.  The back I split along the grainline and spread 1″ there by adding 1″ ease to the back.  The net gain/loss is 0. I haven’t changed the total ease just put it where needed for my body.

I then drew the CLA onto the back leg and measured it.  I think I’m about done with the CLA. Making a 1″ CLA lengthens the back leg by 1/4″. Kathy Ruddy says this isn’t important. My screen shots say otherwise.

Finally, I addressed the styling changes I wanted to make.  Kathy makes all the changes on a single tracing, although she does have separate tracings for knit and non-stretch fabrics. Myself, I find the multiple lines confusing. I traced the front and back between hip line and waist. I didn’t copy the darts, but added the uprights from widest hip to waist and then added a casing. I carefully added description of the alteration to each piece.

To use, I align the bottom line with the hip line and temporarily tape into place. When done, I can remove the tracings and file them away until the next time.

I made the styling as if I were working with non-stretch fabric but I am using a very stretchy 100% polyester.  It was sold to me as a twill ponte.  I almost sent it back. This is not ponte. It is thick, beefy but soft and very stretchy. I recognized it as stuff that pills and snags easily.  A garment made of this fabric will not last a full season. Indeed, this one snagged when pinning the legs together. So before even being finished, my pants are snagged and ugly. (Unhappy face)   However, I kept the fabric  for just this occasion: the time when I need a knit muslin.

Since this snagged, I didn’t do much fitting. I serged side and inseams, then crotch. I hemmed at the cover stitch. I mean this snagged while pinning the first side seam. It doesn’t make sense to put a lot of effort into a pant that has little hope of being worn  a half-dozen times. I did baste the elastic into place.  I’m using Louise Cuttings elastic but instead of LC’s calculation, I’m using Kathy Ruddy’s method of “pull until you feel resistance”.  I do agree that all elastics have a different stretch factor. So saying cut your elastic this long is a recipe for failure.  I’m not sure the “pull until you feel resistance” method is the right answer either.  If I had used LC’s instructions, the elastic would have been 3″ shorter. But this is a muslin and I’m willing to experiment.

I discovered that I added too much at the top for the casing. I added twice the width of the elastic plus 1/8″ for turn of cloth.  I needed to add only one width of the elastic plus the TOC.  I did take in the side seams. The finished serged side seam is 5/8″. I’m not complaining about the front view. These are typical, classical and out of trend, pull on, knit pants. The arrow points to a drag line which Angela Wolf says indicates that the front inseam is too long.  Since this is a knit fabric, I won’t change my pattern — yet.  If I start seeing this repeated in future versions, I’ll make the adjustment. But for now, it’s OK. One thing I would like is a pocket.  I couldn’t figure out how to add a pocket without adding a lot of bulk in the waistline area.  Had this been a less beefy fabric, I might have added the pocket pieces anyway.

The side view shows clearly that the front crotch is still too long, at least for this particular knit. I couldn’t see it during fitting. I’m not sure I want to alter my pattern. This is a very stretchy knit. I’m thinking, I really need to follow Kathy’s lead instead of Angela’s.  Angela recommends using the same pattern for stretch and non-stretch jeans  adjusting at fitting by taking in side seams and inseams 1/4″ at a time. Kathy creates a 2nd copy of her favorite pattern and makes the common adjustments needed for knits. Peggy Saggers says the common adjustments are both length and circumference. Yeah, I’ve been listening to lots of folks.  I also note on this picture that the bottom of my knee brace is apparent. It’s a short horizontal line below the knee.  Not annotated, but can be seen is a hint of VPL.  I didn’t see that in the mirror. I’m not sure if I serged off too much or it was there before the final side seam serging. I had serged the side seams at 1/4″. Then basted at 1/2″. There still seemed to be too much ease, so I made the final serging at 5/8″. This could be my bad. Fortunately when fully dressed, you can’t see my VPL.

It is the back view which has me thinking Kathy’s CLA is not the answer for my issue with excess ease over the thigh.  Without her CLA, the pants hang without drag lines:

That is 3 versions without CLA. There is too much ease across the back thigh, but no hideous drag lines between butt and knee.  This version includes 1 more inch of ease in the back, with CLA:

… and ugly drag lines. I’d rather my rear looked like the 3 versions without CLA.  I also lowered the CLA pivot point 1″ for this version.  I thought perhaps the pivot was too high and was trimming needed ease from the hip.  My points are the widest hip, 4″ below and the knee.  I’ll give the CLA one more try using the crotch line instead of the widest hip.  I was just sure Kathy said to use the widest hip  as the top point. She was vague as to the center pivot point; stating in the comments to use the place which has the most excess ease. I also used a 3/4″ CLA, when I need more, because a smaller CLA  reduces the increase in the back side-seam length.  I’m not happy about the side seam length changing.  That’s a great way to get those side wrinkles like I have with the last pair:

If the side lengths are different, you are gathering one to fit the other. Very small amounts can be made without being noticed. Large amounts? Ugly.

Would you believe, I wish these were of good fabric?

I love this color and can see myself wearing these “a smidge too tight” pants.

Future changes?

The Eureka’s are good for many style changes. Fit wise

I still need to shorten the front crotch length. Debating on 1/4 or 1/2″

I also think I’ll remove that bit I added to the back crotch. While I don’t really believe in the “shorten the back crotch” theory, it didn’t hurt the previous versions. I can’t be sure if it is not affecting the current pair. Unless I rip the SA’s and restitch. Not doing that.

Make a separate pattern for stretch fabrics which will contain the common length and circumference changes.

Am I done with the CLA?  No I’ll try it one more time using the crotch line instead of widest hip as my top point. But if the CLA continues to add the diagonal lines, I’m done. There just as things you should accept as needed for the greatest flattery of your figure. Like shoulder pads to fill out the shoulder slope and visually widen the shoulder line, maybe I need excess ease over the thigh to fill out the valley between my butt and knee. Maybe that excess ease is key to a great looking pair of slacks/trousers. (Jeans and leggings are a different story.)

Advertisements

4 Responses to "Eureka Pull-Ons"

I think these look nice on you. I agree that the color is very pretty; too bad the fabric is the pits. I have about come to the conclusion that fitting the PERFECT pant is impossible. Given fabric differences, what looks good in the mirror vs the photo, etc. I can drive myself to distraction. Then, a trip through the wash can change a few things for whatever reason. I’m really trying to not be so crazy about fitting pants without *one* wrinkle. Will I get there? who knows!

yes Linda I try to be reasonable about the wrinkles, but all this “photoshopping” has affected me. I do wish this had been a better fabric. Despite the dated styling, they were quick to sew and relatively comfortable to wear. Thanks for the encouragement.

As always, I love reading your fitting commentary. I’m at a similar point to you with the Kathy Ruddy method. I’m making a pair of pull-on slim cut capri pants (it’s Summer here) and still have a bit of excess at the back thigh. I started with my Sure Fit Designs blueprint which has a very full leg and narrowed it using the method that Kathy teaches in her Craftsy course. That seems to have worked well. However, the crescent leg alteration doesn’t seem to be having the desired effect. For my next pair, I’m going to put a princess seam down the centre back so I can get a really close fit with my stretch woven fabric. For that, I’m using the method demonstrated by Glenda Starling on her SFD website, and the fabric is black so I don’t anticipate it being a glaring design feature!

Oh yes, do post when you add the princess seam in back. My Trudy Jansen 906’s have the back seam and a wonderful fit. The same idea in her trouser pattern (905) didn’t work, but I’ve come to believe Betzina that the only way to fit closely with a butt as big as mine, is the center back seam. I’ll be watching your blog!

Comments are closed.

%d bloggers like this: