sdBev's Pants!

Better and Worse

Posted on: December 14, 2013

I’m still working with Kathy Ruddy’s CLA  attempting to remove the excess ease over my back thigh.

Before I get too far into discussing my photos, I need to make excuses.  Normally I try to take pictures immediately after I’ve finished the garment.  In those final pictures, I’m checking the finished fit and the fabric/garment is probably at it’s best.  I delayed pic’s because I wanted to check these pants with the garments I planned to wear.  I thought I would dress and take photos immediately in the morning. However, several hours passed. Like most of the day. Enough of the day that I think these pants are OK to wear despite the negative commentary I’m about to make.

I successfully added pockets this time. The last attempt was disastrous. I used a jean type front opening. I wanted to finish the hand opening with bias tape and use a single back pocket piece thereby reducing bulk. This polyester moleskin with its satin backing is luxurious.  I fantasized making a cape but realized I’d never wear it.  As a pant, this heavy weight, non-stretch fabric needs a roomy draft with bulk reduction whenever possible. For the life of me, I couldn’t get the bias tape to smoothly round the pocket curve and fold over to the back. The bias tape insisted upon showing. I finally cut a facing from nylon gauze (think old curtain) stitched it in place, turned pressed and trimmed to about 1″ wide. This worked nicely, but what a pain.  The process does make a nice, bulk free, smooth pocket. But I’ll have to remember, it’s a NO-GO to use bias tape on the jean pocket.

The first pictures is not exactly how I’d planned to wear these.  I meant to wear the top shared here and worn in these pictures but with a different vest. The vest worn here:

Pants are suffering from the long day, long underwear and winter static cling.

… but the muted pink of this vest just has no pizzaz.  It looked “off” even as I assembled the 3 hangers (with garments) from the closet.  I think the black vest is a much better combination.  At the beginning of winter, I had started to discard the muted pink vest.  But I was seeing suggestions of this color in the stores and decided to keep the vest and make coordinating garments.  I’m good at moving things out of my closet, mostly to move new items in and  I’ve decided the decision to keep and sew was a mistake. The vest is in the donation box.

When fitting, I lowered the front waistline 3/4″.  I’d already removed 1/2″ at the pattern. You would think with a belly like mine,  lots of front crotch length would be needed. But that is just not the case. The length as given caused pouching just above the leg.  I think the whole front needs to be shortened at the pattern stage. Pulling up in front seems to contribute to diagonal lines at the side seams;  but I also need to take into consideration the CLA that I’m making.

I’m up to a 1″ adjustment, which is the max Kathy recommends during her course, One Pattern Many Looks.  In the discussion she did mention having to make an even larger adjustment for a particular client.

This  feels good when wearing.  It’s only in the pictures that I see I could remove more excess ease from the back thigh.  Except that those dreaded diagonal lines have developed.  Oddly, the finished pant has a little VPL across the back which was not present in the previous pictures.  The pictures just prior to this were made the night before when the pockets, zipper, inseams and crotch were permanently stitched but the side seams and waistband were only basted.  I do blame winter’s static cling for part of the issues. I keep a can of spray around because static cling is an issue every year.

Of the pictures I took, I think it’s the side view that is most telling:

 

The back VPL is just barely visible.  I still have 1″ seam allowances added to the pattern.  Since with every pant made, I’ve used the full 1″ SA, I plan to reduce the pattern SA.    Looking back at the other 2 front pictures, it’s like the whole front leg is too large and too long.  I’m a little bit surprised by those diagonals on the side-front. Both Kathy Ruddy and Angela Wolf stress laying the pant out on a flat surface and smoothing the leg across grain to avoid twisting the leg.  I did that and I pinned. Normally I put a pin at the knee, the waist and the hem.  I pinned every 3 inches. The leg is not twisted on the inseam, only at the side seam. Before the CLA, the side seams seemed to be even. It’s only after adding  1″ CLA  the leg lengths seem uneven.

I will be very careful when making alterations. I’m planning

  1. Trim Seam allowances (This fabric has no stretch. I can’t imagine another fabric with any less).
    1. Back 3/8″
    2. Front 1/2″ (finished SA 1/2″
  2. Trim 3/4″ across the entire front not just at the crotch.
  3. Walk the side seams

Until I’m satisfied with the CLA, I will continue to make it after the fabric is cut and not add it to the pattern. However, I will walk the seams, after making the CLA on the fabric because I want to know if the CLA is altering the side seam length. Kathy says it makes no difference, but that’s not what I’m seeing. Then again, shortening the front 3/4″ might just take care of all my issues.  In the meantime, I think this pant is fine to wear. I look no worse than anyone else in the bank line. Static cling get’s us all.

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2 Responses to "Better and Worse"

I’m wearing my Eureka’s this am and I, too, have too much fabric in the front. I thought maybe I traced wrong or?? but reading that you are having the same issues in front. I’m going to fool with the pattern a bit later and see what I ‘think’ might need to happen. RE the cla – I marked it on my pattern yesterday – at 1/2 in – I do not like the looks of it but will try it later. I’m thinking the Flat ba might be better. The other thing I’m going to do is lay MY pattern over the original and see if maybe I need a different back?? Are we never satisfied???

I keep working towards perfection, but accept good enough. I’m finding even with the Louise Cutting’s MSS and the Burda patterns that I need to take at least 1″ ease from the front and move it to the back i.e. I fold out 1″ in front, split the back along the grain line and spread it 1″. Most of the time, that makes the pant pattern nearly perfect. I had not made that change to the Eureka pattern. Not even realized it until you commented about the previous pair. I need to fix that.

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