Eureka Pant, KathyRuddy

Grrr Foiled by Fabric ….. yet again!

I was pleased with the final alterations to my muslin of the Eureka pant. Had a few questions about the leg and  a little hesitant once I realized how the fabric stretched when body-warmed.  But I transferred the changes as accurately as possible to the tissue, trimmed seam allowances as appropriate for me for cutting a “real” pair from very nice fabric.

I think I need to start making notes to myself.  I made the changes to the tissue one day.  I made a mental note to add 1″ seam allowances on the following day, while cutting the fabric. Well instead “Sweet and Low” I must have added “Stupid Flow” to my morning coffee. When I got down to the sewing room I had completely forgotten about increasing the seam allowances. I cut the fabric as per the tissue. Oh yes I regretted it.

The result, while I wouldn’t wear it, is interesting.  Sorry no pics. There are somethings I just don’t share.  Public views of my girlie parts rank high on that list.  Let me describe. The side seam is perpendicular. The back is too tight between HBL 1 and 3.  While the outline of my underwear is detectable, the rest of the area is fine.  I saw 1 diagonal  line between knee and bum which I believe is related to not enough ease across the hip.  From all sides, the pant is too short which I think is odd since I removed 2″ less than I had pinned up for the hem. The front shows that I still need to lift the waist at the side between grain line and side seam.  Otherwise the pant as a whole could be OK.  In fact, other than the hem length, I might wear these,,,  if I was willing to don industrial-strength shape wear.  I’m not. I mean, I’m not willing to wear strong shaping underwear.  I do wear a back support, knee support and wrist support as needed.  I may eventually need to wear these support devices continuously.  I may even need corrective surgery in the future. For now, however, I  wear support when needed and add enough ease to my clothing to conceal my support devices.

The problem with my “real” pant goes back to the chosen muslin fabric.  It did not stretch in any direction as long as it (the fabric) was cold.  Once on my body, it stretched subtly but significantly.  A secondary issue is not cutting  the side seam allowances 1″ wide.  Something Kathy Rudy emphasizes over and over is “Cut big. Sew small” .  This garment could have been saved if it had 1″ side seam-allowances. The side seams could have been released, adding enough ease in the needed areas.  The hema, could have been faced with bias tape or a faux-cuff added.

The question I face now is: Can I adapt my pattern without making a whole new muslin?  It is  clear to me that I must find a way that when there is ever a doubt, I can/will  add more width  to the seam allowances,  not merely plan to do it.  It’s also clear to me that muslin fabric must be more carefully chosen.  Are these changes possible?

Ummmmm,  have to think about that and get back to ya…

PS  Suggestions definitely welcome.

2 thoughts on “Grrr Foiled by Fabric ….. yet again!”

  1. Hi Bev I have just finished reading your journey in pants fitting. What a wonderful diary of your efforts. I have some of the same lines on my muslins which is what drew me to your blog having seen some of your fitting photos. I am 5’7″ with flat hips but a booty that is very generous. I would like to say thank you for your posts as these have really helped me get the pattern I am fitting at present (Style Arc Peta Pants) to a wearable stage. I have found that the Style Arc seems to be the easiest to fit my body – Burda just ended up with too much fabric.

    Cheers Jacquianne

    1. Thanks for the compliments. I read your blog often and will look forward to seeing your version of the Peta Pants. So far, I’ve not gotten any of the Style Arc patterns to fit me. I’ll be checking your blog for fitting tips.

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