I decided I had to try the Eureka Pant after Janis shared her version with us at SG. I thought I ordered the pattern earlier but when I first started, I couldn’t find the pattern in my stash or a record of purchase. That’s when I made the ill-fated Terrific Trousers (still think I must have done something terribly wrong, but moving on….). I made Otto 5/2013 Style #2 because Eureka pattern hadn’t arrived and I needed another pair of pants. When the pattern arrived, I finished Style #2 hurriedly ( I didn’t really complete Style 2 as well as I first intended.) But I digress, Eureka is here. I’ve read the instructions and I’m ready to start.
I was surprised to find a size Medium recommended. Mind you, I’m quite pleased that I’m no longer a 2X but I’ve not lost all padding. Most clothing in the size large fits. I need an XL sometimes. But a medium is too small. Far too small. Nonetheless my hip and abdomen measurements fall well within the size range listed for a medium.
I chose the Style #3 back after carefully reading the description. I was pleased with the verbiage used. Fit is described in terms of how a RTW pant behaves on the body. It was easy to peg me as a Back #3. After tracing the front and back pattern pieces (along with all grain lines, HBL, dart and other markings), I pulled out my tape measure. Just to be sure. I mean I’m normally a large or x-large. I didn’t completely trust the medium recommendation. It’s really a simple and quick thing to do. I measured across the front and back at the hip line. Multiplied that times 2 and compared with my hip measurement. Repeat same for the abdomen. I’m pleased to report that medium should work for me.
My muslin fabric is a polyester twill purchased many years ago when Walmart still cared about customers. The fabric had a flaw which didn’t matter because at $1/yard I purchased 5 yards and made a few garments by cutting around the flaw. I’m left with about enough to make the pants muslin. It doesn’t stretch but does fray. So after cutting, I transferred all the pattern markings and then serge finished all edges.
Next, I basted in a front zipper. Fit For Art recommends leaving the seam open but does allow those who are fitting themselves to use either a side or front opening. I admit, the reasoning is good. The thought is that the zipper will interfere with fitting the torso. That can be true. I won’t contest it generally. Except for me. I seldom have fitting problems with the front. I do however become very irate with trying to pin seams together and then looking around and see if the @!!##! thing fits while pins poke and prick me. I basted in the zipper. Basted the inseams. Basted the side seams. Folded the hems up 4″ and pinned in place. Then decided, what the heck, I have a pretty good idea of what darts should be like on my body and I basted in 4 darts (2 front, 4 back).
Then I tried on my muslin for the first fitting.