sdBev's Pants!

Fitting the Hounds Tooth Shorts

Posted on: June 26, 2013

I took pics and then started wearing the shorts. So I’m wearing as I’m writing about them. The fabric does photo well, which is a relief.  I’m at a disadvantage by not having a fitting/sewing partner. I depend upon my camera for fitting advice. Sometimes I can’t tell until all the sewing is done that something is amiss.  But if the fabric doesn’t photo well, I can’t tell at all. I’m at the mercy of mirror observations and the feel of the garment. Neither are entirely reliable.

I photo and examine the back view first. I’m convinced that the back tells the true story.  Frankly, I’m pleased with this pic. I sometimes wonder if one of my hips is higher than the other but, if so, definitely not this obvious. During this pic I had unintentionally hiked up the side. That leaves me to wonder if I have a wrinkle on the right leg which needs to be fixed. It’s not on the left leg but there is a slight pull at the butt on the left. I prefer the uni-butt look and I don’t want my girlie parts evident either. So this back looks near perfect to me.

I’m sure there was some concern about my cutting the waistband on grain instead of cross grain. I could have arranged the pattern pieces just a little differently, cut the fronts and backs, then unfolded the fabric and cut the waistband pieces on the cross grain. I was anxious to sew and check my pattern alterations. I’d already taken time to change-up the pattern a 2nd time to: conserve fabric, lay out the tissue again and take pics (never a quick or easy task for me).  I was anxious to get going and slapped those pieces on the straight of grain.  As far as sewing, the straight of grain is just as good as the cross grain. There is a difference in appearance which I did consider. My conclusion was that there would be so much stitching and gathering along the waistband that the difference wouldn’t be noticed. What do you think? (Click on the photo for an enlarged view.)

I’m also really happy with the side view.  The side seam is hanging perpendicular and bisecting my side. In the previous pair it was obvious that the back side had insufficient ease and was borrowing it from the front. Just 1/2″ more ease and the back fits wonderfully.  The pockets are so gooooooooooood. I love the way they have folded into place and hang inside the front. Just love these. If you look closely you’ll see a little drag line on the back along the pocket opening. That’s not present on the other side. I assume that I must have mismatched or stretched the side seams. I stitched the side seams from the top to the pocket and then from the hem to the pocket. I don’t think the bubble is that noticeable, but it’s something I think I should be aware of and more careful to avoid in the future.   But the photo begins to show something that I feel when wearing the pants. The front pants waistband wants to crawl upwards. If I pull it down comfortably around my natural waist, the front crotch is too long.  It actually rubs between my front thighs.

Also from the front, I wonder if there still isn’t too much ease but only in front.  I do like the way it camo’s my tummy. I mean I look and think “too much ease” not “too much tummy”. That’s a good thing. Right?

Lastly, the all important “Bank Line View”.  Not bad. I’m probably the only person who thinks “Can I fix this? “.  I’m likely to scoop the back crotch just a little for this pair but nothing more. I fear the loose woven nature of the fabric and will not rip a single seam. I think what I will do for the next pair, is shift about 1/4″ ease from front to back. At the same time, now that I’m sure I cut the elastic correctly and it’s not causing the crotch issues, I will shorten the front crotch another 1/2” BUT I will do this Louise’s way which is to shorten the front and add to the back.  Did I mention before I’m at a disadvantage by not having a fitting partner?  I think a fitting partner would have gotten me closer during first fitting and I would have only needed the tweaks I’m planning for the 3rd pair but would have made them on the 2nd pair. Nonetheless I do get my clothing to fit better than any RTW I buy and better than most of my neighbors and friends. Sometimes I think I’m being too picky, which as dressmakers we tend to become. We know we can fix it.  I will wear both these Hounds Tooth and the Softened Linen shorts for the remainder of this summer.  Both are cool, fairly comfortable and harmonize with the tops in my closet. Being comfortably and appropriately clothed is more important to me than removing every wrinkle. Besides I know as soon as the body moves, the fabric will wrinkle.

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5 Responses to "Fitting the Hounds Tooth Shorts"

Congratulations! They look great – even if you see things which still should be adjusted.

Thank you. I do think I can adapt the crotch just a little more. It’s a dressmaker thing. We always think we can improve the fit with another 1/4″ alteration. These are no only wearable for me, they are a bit dressy which I will really appreciate as the temps continue to climb but I still want to look my best.

Yes! It is dressmakers thing… I have the same – if it’s possible – ajdust. If not – next one will be better! It is so difficult to fit the trousers/pants alone… You have done such a great job!

I agree it is terribly difficult to ‘fit’ yourself. I make full use of a hairdressers mirror so that I can check my back view in a mirror without twisting everything. The mirrors aren’t costly and I find it really helps.

Interesting idea. I do have a hand mirror which I use to check in a full length mirror.

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