I still need pants. I live in pants. I don’t have to have jeans, although I like jeans, but I do need comfortable nice looking pants. In the last 3 months I’ve made over 30 pairs of pants. That includes muslins. In my closet are 9 pairs which get worn. 1 is a pair of shorts which won’t be worn much until the temps skyrocket. 1 is a dressy pair which I love but tend to reserve for dressier occasions. The 3rd pair I love and wear are the Mom Jeans. The last pair I love and count as perfect, the brown cotton linen jeans with the curved yoke. The other pants in my closet have somewhat minor issues. The front crotch is too long but can’t be seen only felt. Another the back gaps – if I don’t wear a belt. A 3rd feels good all day long, looks good in the morning. As the day wears on the back droops until you would swear I was wearing Adult Depends. Two have diagonal drag lines from knee to mid bu_t. I still wear all of these because they really don’t look bad and aren’t horribly uncomfortable, b-u-t if I had replacements I wouldn’t wear any of the less than perfect pants. Even now, they are chosen only when my favorites are in the washer. Mind you I didn’t say dirty clothes, I said washer. As in wet and my front loading washer won’t let me open the door until the water is drained. So I still need pants and I’m ready for some different styling. I’ve got the basic pant (JSM) and a basic jean (B5403) fitting very well (fabric choices can still wreak havoc). I feel like I’ve added to my arsenal of pants fitting knowledge. Yep, I’m ready for something different but not too challenging.
For the next round of pants making I’ve chosen Style #143 from Burda issue 2/2013. The pattern was drafted for satin duchess and should work with my non-stretch woven. It has a faced, 1.5″ wide, contoured waistband which should sit 3/8″ below the natural waistline. There are faced, slant front pockets but none drafted for the back. It has a slim leg ending in an 18″ hem circumference. I make a quick check of my measurements and then compared to Burda’s recommended sizes. Burda recommends a 46 based on my hip size and a 48 for my waist. I traced the size 48 and then remembering how easily Burda used to fit with a simple 1size larger inseam, I traced the size 50 front and back inseams.
Then I dithered about pattern alterations. There are so many subtle and obvious difference between this pattern, my JSM pattern and the B5403 pattern. Too many to list. I did chop 6″ from the bottom of the leg. The leg is fairly straight from knee to hem. I didn’ see a special cuff or some other reason why the leg would be so long. Maybe I’m just accustomed to the shorter pants legs we’ve worn the last few years. The back crotch is very similar to the B5403 but the front crotch isn’t much more than a hook. One of the features of B5403 which I think contributed to the ease of fitting, is long front and back crotch extensions (sometimes called forks). I shuffled pattern pieces around, pinned yokes and pockets into place and compared and compared and compared. Finally I took out the tape measure. Using the size 48 there should be 4″ ease across the hip and 2 across my tummy. That should be plenty. But I’ve suffered through this before. I know for a fact that all fabrics act just slightly differently. More than once I’ve thought “x inches of ease is plenty” and then pieces the garment or tossed it into the garbage. So when it came time for adding seam allowances, I added 1.5″ to side seams and another 1″ to the front waistband because I want under/over laps.
My fabric is a 100% cotton brushed twill. It maybe more suitable for fall weather but I’m sure I’ll be glad to have this on cooler summer nights too. Besides it is wonderfully soft and a deep dark navy which will be hard to photo but will look nice on me and with at least a third of my wardrobe.