Burda 2010-02-143 First Fitting

I used a variant of the Easy No-Bulk pocket shared previously. The other pockets were sharpely curved. Best finished by binding with bias tape. This pocket edge is straight. I added 1″ to the edge prior to cutting it out. (I did not cut the facing only the back pocket-pant  piece and the front). I interfaced the edge, folded it down twice and cover stitched. Then I fused the back pocket-pant into place, marked the edge with tailors chalk and cover stitched that into place. It is again a very easy, quick finish and helps me justify to myself the purchase of the cover stitch machine. I mean $500 because I’m too lazy to hem by hand seemed a little extravagent.  Having more uses eases my self-inflicted guilt.

This is a really short zipper. Maybe 4″.  I did permanently stitch the zipper, as well as the pockets, into place.  I’m concerned about that front crotch but if I need to add a gusset, the zipper will not be in the way. I hate ripping seams. I double-hate ripping zippers because zippers is one of the few places I sew with small (1.5-2mm) stitch lengths. So zipper is in permanently.

I interfaced the hems, pressed them up into place, but pinned instead of fusing or basting.  All the seams are basted. I’d rather not have to sew seams twice, but I don’t trust this pattern to fit without any effort.  I’m also a believer that my waistband/waist-treatment must fit before I can work on any other issues. So the waist facing has been basted together and in place but is pinned along bottom edge of the waistband.

Time to check on that first fit. Remember I said it would be hard to photo the dark navy?  Well I was right!  These pics have been lightened as much as possible. Try to look at how beautiful the fit is across the back from waist to crotch.  It feels tight, but is beautifully smooth and shapely.

Then entire back looks wonderful!  For me, normally the front of pants looks terrific and the back is a hot mess.  These are showing only a little pulling at the knee, my fat knee.

That diagonal line is better than the TJ906’s which I consider wearable now. These are an improvement!

However,  the front view is annoying.

In the pattern sizing analysis, I chose the size to trace based upon the waist.  In my mind, there should be enough ease in front and too much in back. But these clearly show a prominent tummy and not enough ease. I probably could get away with finishing these and wearing them. After all, my tops hang down to about mid hip.  So my tops would cover the tummy in front but the nice looking tush in back would still be visible. But I’m working on this pattern thinking of making future copies or similar styles.   So I examine the side view to see if it suggests the first obvious change.

I draw lines when I’m analyzing photos. The arrows show that my drag lines are pointing both to the tummy and to side at the widest point of my hip.   I also drew vertical lines following the side seam.  The side seam is fairly perpendicular from hem to that wide hip-point but then it leans forward between hip and waist. This suggests to me that the first issue to correct is adding additional ease for my tummy. The pant is sitting firmly on my waist neither too tight nor too loose.  I want to add ease for the tummy, but keep the waist the same. For now, I will not effect the hip or thigh fit. I’ve found that very often when I correct the obvious error, other problem just disappear.  I’ve also found that trying to make all the fixes at once, only creates more problems. Keep It Simple is a good rule for fitting.