sdBev's Pants!

B5403 the Crotch Shape

Posted on: May 31, 2013

  • In: 5403
  • Comments Off on B5403 the Crotch Shape

Many times, I can tell immediately if there is any hope a pant pattern will fit, by looking at the crotch. In case you are like me, in that regard, I thought I’d share what the B5403 crotch looks like.

The pattern pieces have been cut to the size XL, laid crotch to crotch and overlapped 1/4″ at the crotch.  This layout is missing the back yoke which adds another 1.75 to the back crotch; the front pocket piece and waistband.  I think you get the picture of a nice wide crotch with sufficient length to the extensions/forks of the crotch.  To often, designers think the bias of the fabric will stretch and adapt for all body sizes.  This just isn’t true.  Even with lycra, some of us need sitting room.

I needed a few more adaptions for the pattern to fit to my satisfaction.  My completed pieces, including the yoke:

 

Surprisingly, I made more changes to the front than back.  I’m not showing a comparison of the backs, because mine is scooped just slightly at the curve and the outseam  between hip and knee has been slimmed by about 3/8″.  The front:

The patterns are aligned on the grain and hip lines. If you read my easy pockets post, you’ll recognize that I filled in the pocket opening on my personal pattern. I’ve also made the front crotch more upright, indicating that Connie designed the pattern for a more Rubenesque tummy. I also needed to shorten the crotch upright and add more ease for the front thigh by adding a wedge from crotch to just above the knee (sorry that doesn’t really show in the pic’s).

When I compare the original with my personal tissue, I think I really didn’t do much to get this fitting me.  I’m happy about that and would be happy to consider using more of Connie Crawford’s pants patterns.

 

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