Black Twill

This 100% cotton black twill will fill a void in my wardrobe:


I used the same B5403 pattern with 2 changes. 1) I added 1″ to the hem as mentioned during critiquing the previous pair.2) I added a gusset, which I will share tomorrow.  Not really a pattern alteration but it does make a difference in how the pant hangs, I used the pocket design from the grey shorts. I basted sides and waistband before taking these pictures.  Even lightened 100%…


… it is hard to see the details and make a reasonable criticism.I’m going to have to depend upon feel and what I can see in the mirror. But I see that the back of the leg still has some excess ease and there is something making the sides look lumpy in the picture.The leg may be too long, it’s buckling at the knee.  Nonetheless, I’m not changing the leg length. This is 100% cotton. Cotton is inclined to shrink.  I decided against removing the excess ease in the back of the thigh. These feel close-fitting when I stand. When I sit, I seem to fill out all available space.  Since I sit as much or more than I stand, I think I want that ease. I can tell that the waist is tiling upwards. Since this has been consistent the last 3 pairs of pants, I will alter the pattern and remove 1/4″ from front and back at the waistline. My experience in the past is that those little feather marks above the bu_t are due to back crotch height being too high. I do think that removing 1/4″ from the height of the front crotch will also smooth out the draping lines seen on the front thigh. Again, it’s an experience thing. I know that’s the alteration which works for my body and those wrinkles.

I’ll be putting this pattern away now, but just for a while. Even though this really is the typical “Mom Jeans” pattern I will be using it in the future. It fits relatively well. Especially when I realize that I’ve been using non-stretch fabrics to produce an acceptable fit.  I have several things I want to do, sewing-wise.  Now that I know I can fit a pattern without the X wrinkles in the back, I’m eager to pull out my TJ906 and fix it. I also want to adapt the MSS for my figure, something I wasn’t able to do using the designer’s instructions.  I think the MSS is the pattern for when you need pants now. And of course, I do want to fit Jalie 2908 and adapt Tj906 and this pattern for stretch fabrics. Finally I still want to play with the idea of changing the 3 leg-piece TJ906 into a back-darted two-piece pattern. Immediately, though, I’m going to be sharing my process for creating an inner leg gusset  and the excellent front pocket used in this version B5403.