B5403 That’s The Way I Like It

I knew I was close with Version 2. I copied my changes back to the tissue. That’s not always easy or straight forward especially as it seemed I was taking an uneven crescent out shape from both waistline and hip curves; AND I was greatly reshaping the back crotch. But I felt somewhat assured and even a little confident.  At the tissue, I trimmed most of my seams to 3/8″ leaving only the side seams with a net 3/4″ allowance.

My fabric is a cotton/linen blend.  I found this particular fabric at Hancocks in Sioux Falls.  I bought this odd brown/rust/chocolate because it was the only color available.  Fortunately, it rather appeals to me and will work with my brown/pink Summer 6PAC.  I particularly like this blend as it is more comfortable than linen alone. It resists some wrinkling and doesn’t shrink as much.  Cotton/linen is softer to wear from the get-go.  The rumor is that linen softens over time. I never reach that end point as linen shrinks with every laundry cycle.  My 100% linen garments have always become too small before they became comfortably soft.

I’m going to jump straight to the finished fit.  I made 4 fitting tweaks to this Version #3. The first 3 changes targeted the torso length between waist and high hip. That’s like the 4″ just below th waistband.  The 4th and final tweak, trimmed away those Mickey Mouse ears I complained about with Ver 2. The result is

Darn near perfect! I will transfer these last changes to the tissue. My next major fix will be changing that curved yoke to a straight classic yoke.  Here in South Dakota, we’re rapidly entering summer weather and temperatures. I plan to fold the pattern at the knee and use it to make a few pairs of shorts. Future plans include morphing the flare leg onto this tissue.  (This should be easy. The pattern contains both the straight leg above and the flared leg.)  A minor alteration which delivers real fabric savings is the inner leg/crotch gusset.  I’ll be working on that too.

Oh I do see that I need to tweak the fit just a bit more.  There appears to be a little more ease than I care for on the back thigh.  I’m also seeing just a bit of pulling on the front legs which indicates that the front crotch extension is a mite short and I do believe that a twitch of ease could be removed beneath the tummy of the front only.

Now that this pattern fits well, I’m really pleased and even a little excited. I now have a template for fitting other jean drafts. That means I can pull out the Jalie pattern and adapt it for me.  I can fetch the TJ906 pattern that almost fit and make it perfect.  I can do so much because of this basic template.  I take back my earlier less than enthusiastic comments. Truthfully it took only 2 versions to reach a good fit. The first version was my terrible personal error caused by my not checking the fabric recommendations. I’m even more impressed with this pattern since I was able to take a pattern drafted for stretch fabrics and use it with non-stretch fabrics.  I’m tickled. Just tickled pink at how well this has ended for me.


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