I am persistent. Besides there was something about the first pair which bugged me. I had taken pictures along the way. Now I stopped and stared at the first set. The set before I started letting out seams.  My initial thought kept coming back. These would fit, if I had used a stretch fabric. I viewed the pictures several times more and .

I could see that not only was the waist and hip too tight, but the back crotch wasn’t quite right. It dips at the waist.
 photo zDip_zps86698c94.jpg
But letting out at the waistband or yoke only adds wrinkles below the dip
 photo ZDipStill_zps33ff6f48.jpg

And the wrinkles under the b utt
 photo zBackleg_zps9baf9fe5.jpg
..don’t improve no matter what seams I let out.

I’ve decided I’m tripping over semantics, over the way the back leg problem is described.  All the books and experts seem to agree that the back of the leg wrinkles is a result of a flat-b utt.  Mine is definitely not flat, but something about my shape pulls the crotch down in the center back and creates a mass of wrinkles on the back leg.  This pattern as a nice long back crotch extension but it’s shaped like a big U.  I find the pants which fit me best are more like a fish hook. The same long extension but it is formed by dipping low in back and then angling upward to meet the front hook.

With these thoughts swirling around, I decided to make B5403 again with another non-stretch fabric. My fabric is a cotton canvas. Canvas can be stiff, but this particular type is almost fluid and readily imitates denim in the way it drapes and feels on the body.

I traced the Xlarge pattern adding 1″ to the side seams. That would make a total of 4″ ease added to the torso and 2″ around each leg.  Oddly, I do feel that I want a little more ease around my leg, just not 2″. However for simplicity sake, I’ve added the even amount along the entire side and I’m planning to remove some during fitting. I’m also hoping that 4″ ease around the torso is too much.  We’ll see.  I also changed the seam allowance along the crotch. I can never make a 5/8″ SA lay flat along the crotch. I despise clipping. It makes for a messy, “grandma fixed this” finish. Whereas 1/4 or 3/8″ seam will bend.  I prefer to serge the crotch seam together. Since I’m still in the gross fitting stage, I decided to serge finish and sew the seam with a 2.5 length stitch. I also trimmed the 2″ fly down to 1.5″. I always manage to catch the 2″ fly in some of my seaming and end up ripping where ripping should not occur. I marked these changes on my tissue.  I’m not loving the curved back yoke, but for now I’m not doing anything about it either.

OK I’m ready to give this pattern another chance.

1 thought on “B5403”

  1. I have left a comment on your about page if you want to chat, the email is there too…we can make these lovely!

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