sdBev's Pants!

Slimming the JSM

Posted on: May 12, 2013

  • In: JSM
  • Comments Off on Slimming the JSM

I like the draft of the JSM and fit but I like the current amount of ease with fabrics that drape close to the body.  I also want to wear trousers made of fabrics that don’t stand out from the body, but don’t cling either.  Fabrics like soft twills, crepes in wool and silk. Even polyester or beefy rayons.  I need to adapt the pattern for those fabrics by removing some of the ease across the torso.  (I did point those out with blue arrows in my last post about the 50/50 JSMs. So for a slimmer version I used the hip curve ruler aligning 4 at the waistline and 20 at the side seam. This trimmed an amount between 3/8 and 1/4″ along the side between waist and knee.  The 50/50 JSMs had felt close along the front crotch when first worn. During the day it seemed to stretch perfectly.  I prefer not to expect that behavior from all fabrics and I added 1/4″ length to the front crotch. Otherwise, this is the same pattern as used for the 50/50s.

I thought I was choosing an acrylic/polyester blend woven in a subtle plaid of black and blue.  As I was ironing I could tell this fabric has  a wool content. I had misgivings but continued to use the fabric. I don’t really care to wear wool in the summer.I experience a mild reaction, itching when the wool is against my bare skin.  During the remainder of the year, I can wear either tights or pantyhose and will not even notice the wool content. I could have delayed using this fabric, but I decided it had sat for so long in my stash (about 9 years) and use as a muslin to develop the closer fitting trousers was better than passing over it yet again.   I think it’s interesting to point out the differences in the pattern which are clearly due to a different fabric.
 photo GEDC0073_zpscb50f32d.jpg
These look beautiful in the side view. I’m really proud of them. But the back crotch feels tight, like it is just a little short.
 photo GEDC0072_zpse8c3918b.jpg

I’m surprised that there is some pulling on the inseam. Is that due to the fabric? The front crotch is 1/4″ longer, but the inseams are unchanged. Both front and back side seams have been trimmed in the leg area between 1/8 and 0 inches.  I think the front also tells an interesting story:
 photo GEDC0075_zps09c66409.jpg
Remember the front crotch is actually longer. Why does it appear to be pulling upward?  I did see a slight pulling at the front cuffs of the 50/50 pants. Was that fabric so much heavier that it pulled out the additional diagonal lines I’m seeing?  Will this be repeated with other fabrics?  Is this just a fluke with this fabric?

I wore the pants Mother’s Day afternoon because I wanted to know how they felt and behaved during well.  This fabric is wonderful in that it doesn’t wrinkle. It spreads when I sit and then recovers nicely when I stand.  For the next version, I’ve trimmed another slice off the sides but only on the front. This time the slice starts 3″ down from the waist and feathers out to nothing at the knee.  I also added 3/8″ to the crotch at the inseam.  I may be making the front crotch shorter after the next version. Then again judging by the close feel of the back crotch, maybe not.

I’m still pleased with the pattern, but less wild about this version than the previous 3.  Still when cold Autumn winds arrive, I’ll be glad these are hanging in my closet.

Advertisements
%d bloggers like this: