The First Fitting

I knew these would be too big. In fact, they should be too big.  I chose sizing based on my hip size. My hip was 1/2″ larger than the hip measurements on the chart. Logic would say, make that size (because the next size up is 2″ larger) and let the seams out. But I’ve been bit by such logic before and ended up trying to work with 1/8″ seam allowances. That was not a lone incident either.  In another case I inserted a 1″ ribbon using 1/8″ seam allowances in order to have enough ease. So when I check for pattern sizes, I prefer to choose one size larger and sew wider seams.  But I admit, that was probably error #1.

2nd error occurred during comparing the  JSM trouser pattern with this Jean pattern. Jeans should fit closely. The JSM fits loosely. Grain lines are slightly different on jeans which permit the crotch seams to flex more and the fabric to wrap around the body.  During the comparison I noted that my jean tissue contained 1/8 to 1/4″ more ease than the trouser and that the back crotch length appeared to be 1/2″ longer. But I know that jeans and trousers can’t be exactly compared. I opted not to change the jean tissue instead waiting to see what happened when fabric was added to the equation.

Error #3 was probably the fabric. Purchased from FashionFabricsclub just recently it was advertised as 100% cotton denim.  It may be cotton, but I wouldn’t label this as denim.

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Denim has a distinctive weave with a white warp and blue (or other colored) weft woven in a twill pattern. This may be cotton, same as denim, but it is a plain weave with slubbed yarns more like linen, faux linen or even silk noil. It has a firm hand, not stiff but not cushy denim. I wouldn’t want to use this in a trouser draft. It’s too stiff and would add visual pounds to the fluff I already carry around. It’s not really good for jeans either — not enough give to be comfortable. But it’s good for toile or muslin in a test garment as I’m doing for Petite Plus #605.

So I started with a pattern too large, a jean draft with trouser ease and a fabric not appropriate to the draft and then I stitched all the seams together use a 1/4″ seam allowance. Except for the crotch. I used the recommended 3/8″ SA for the crotch. (3/8″ is recommended for the entire pattern.)  The first trial felt surprising good. It was comfortable. I couldn’t wait to take pictures and really examine the fit. I wasn’t prepared for the mess under my rear:
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or the vertical front folds. The pockets on the rear were just hideous. This first pictures didn’t even say “mom jean”. They said “get rid of me fast”. I didn’t (probably mistake #4)

No I made another fitting effort. First I made all those seams 3/8″ as per the pattern instructions.  Per the pattern the gathers in the back should have been on the side.  I didn’t want my jeans gathered to the waistband anywhere. I deeped the back leg seams at the waist 1/2″  X 4″ long and fit the pant waistline to my waistband.  I tried the pants on again. Nope still too big.  This time I added a wedge across the back.  The pattern was not designed with a yoke, but I’ve managed to add one:
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and I took the side seams in but unevenly.  I removed the wings on the sides. Seriously, the side was curved out like a big ol’ C or Mickey Mouse Ears. Just what every mature woman wants: Mickey Mouse ears where our hips should be. I may have taken out too much. Can’t be sure because I’m dumb founded by:
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what must be  the nastiest camel toe evah!  Originally it was just vertical lines indicating too much ease. Now it’s something bad. Really bad.

I haven’t decided what to do. I can’t take the jeans in across the hips any more.  Nor the legs either.  These are tight in the leg when walking up and down the stairs. The “yoke” removed 1″ across the back. I’m pretty sure even more needs to be removed to smooth out the back leg:

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If  I do that, I will need to scoop out the crotch, a lot. But that’s not going to fix the camel toe in front or help the knock-knee issues developing at the back knee. I’ve already checked the master pattern. Going down a size would not fix the issues. Go down two sizes and the jean will need to be graded up. Heck, I didn’t like this pattern anyway because it didn’t have a yoke or contour waistband. Maybe I should just chuck it.  I’ve already ordered Connie Crawford’s jean pattern #5403. At least it has a yoke.