Jeans: Petite Plus Style

Years ago, OK about 5, my sewing angel sent several pairs of pants which were too large for her but she thought I might be able to use.  The JSM became and remains a favorite. My second choice was Trudy Jansen 906 Jeans.  Amongst the several tried were a pair of Petite Plus Jeans.  At the time, TJ906 fit better and what’s more I was able to purchase it locally. Not that I’m against international trade. It’s just that my personal international shopping experiences have been fraught with delay, damage and substantially higher shipping costs. So as long as I could buy excellent patterns domestically <<shrug>> why go through the pain of an international sale. But this year my shape changed drastically (another of Life’s milestones).  It was difficult to achieve an acceptable fit with *TJ906.  I recalled the fit and comfort of this pair of jeans and decided to order the pattern #605:

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It arrived earlier than expected.  While I’m pleased with the delivery speed, I rather wish I’d examined the pattern more closely.  A careful examination shows that these “jeans” lack a back yoke and posses a straight waistband. This is not  “jean” styling.  To me, jeans should fit closely, posses a back yoke, curved front pockets and butt pocket with detail. They should also posses a contoured waistband, fly front zipper along with zipper shield, belt loops and a coin pocket. Never mind that I never trace, cut or sew either the zipper shield or coin pocket, jean patterns should have these details; and had I seen the shortcomings  I would not have ordered the pattern.

Thankfully, I didn’t notice.  I traced the pattern in the size recommended for my hip circumference. I was really delighted that I didn’t need to trace pocket facing or the piece that becomes the visible pocket on the front. These pieces are the same, regardless of pattern size. Truthfully, I think that’s excellent.  I’ve been stunned by patterns that try to indicate 1/16″ differences between 8-10 sizes.  They end-up showing a solid black line anywhere between 1/4″ and 5/8″ wide. WTF?  Besides, if 1/16″ is going to make that big of a difference, I don’t think I even want to try out the pattern.  I measured my waistband against the pattern waistband and chose to use the 605 waistband but marked with my JSM equivalents i.e. side seam, center back and center front. I carefully compared front and back crotch lengths, general ease and over all length. I WAS STUNNED.  The crotch lengths that I’ve worked so hard at developing over the last few months was spot on with the Petite Plus pattern.   Same is true for the over all width and get this length.  The knee notches were exactly the same.  Not only that, but this is the first pattern EVER that I have not shortened.  Between the JSM and PP605 there is a difference in how the straight of grain is positioned and therefore the slope of the crotch and side seams as compared with a trouser draft BUT I expected this difference because PP605 is a JEAN pattern not a trouser.

I chose one of my recently purchased brown denims with which to test this pattern. The pattern indicated that 3 yards would be required. I’m not sure I read the instructions well enough because my 2.5 yards of 54″ denim was more than adequate.  In fact, I think I have enough left for the brown purse I’ve been desiring. I did press and fold the prewashed denim carefully and laid out the pattern pieces all in one direction. The pocket facing was cut from a lighter weight cotton. Waistband, zipper fly and hems are all interfaced; pocket edges are taped with fusible tape.  I can’t tell you how eager I am to begin sewing but <<sigh>> actual sewing must wait for another day.



*I define acceptable fit  as possessing sufficient length and  width without  reveling any feminine bodily parts or underwear.  TJ906 meets the minimum but is somehow not attractive.